Review on Daystar Ford F250/350 Polyurethane Body Mounts - Fits 1999-2017 2/4WD (KF04050BK) - Made in USA by Brian Thuo

I mounted them on a 1999 Ford F-350 Super Duty Crew Cab 4x4. Good. I had a truck issue that took months to resolve. In left turns at higher speeds I had a vibrating noise that I first thought was a wheel bearing or a rotor or something spinning. After careful inspection, I found that the down tube of the turbine was touching the firewall on sharp left turns. Excessive body roll was the primary cause, although there was plenty of clearance at idle. I replaced all 8 supports, one side at a time. On some older mounts it is very difficult to separate the bottom mount from the top mount as the original ones are pressed from the factory. There are several ways to remove old stubborn fasteners. Spray some penetrating oil (I use Kroil) on the mount first after removing the mount screw. To separate the bottom from the top, either create a spanner and pull the bottom out, or buy a sacrificial 12mm screw and screw it in from the top, then hammer in to secure the bottom knock out the bracket. I've used both strategies, but for really tight fasteners, only tapping them out from the top with a large hammer has worked. I was able to reuse all of my steel hardware, but we don't live in a rust belt. If your frame is fairly rusted, it may not be possible to reuse existing hardware. It will take a little while to get to the front radiator mounts. I had to remove the front bumper because the bottom of the bracket is actually in the spar. After removing the bumper, the front ones weren't that bad. After replacing all the fasteners, I noticed how much the old fasteners were sagging. The truck body is about 3/4 inch taller than the old mounts. Now I have to adapt the bumper to the changed body size. A test drive showed that these mounts solved my problem. These mounts transfer a little more noise and vibration from the frame to the cab, but they also offer a lot less body roll and feel like the cab is securely attached to the frame and very little back and forth over bumps. the brackets dried according to the instructions and did not hear any squeaks or other noises. The installation took me about 10 hours, but during this time I also completely removed the interior and the carpet and installed sound insulation. Changing the fasteners, I estimate this job will take 4-6 hours. The first side is slower until you figure out all the tricks, then the second side takes about half the time. In fact, changing fasteners is a good jack, and a 4 x 4 jack works well to raise the body an inch or two to remove the old top brackets and install the new ones. All in all it was quite a big project, but not very complex. These brackets appear to be the only non-OEM option for my truck and they solved my problem and I'm glad they were replaced at a far lower cost than the OEM brackets would have been (about $800 Dollar).