They are in black instead of white as in the picture which is a good thing as the whites look terrible as the paint is chipping and starting to rust over time. I had a car that bounced uncontrollably after every bump and now it drives like new. The shocks came with top mount hardware but not bottom mount hardware (as pictured). So it's a good idea to remove the shocks before new ones arrive as you may have to buy floor nut plates locally as they are all sheet metal and may have rusted through. Also, apply a liberal amount of penetrant to the bottom nuts before removing them, and if the bolts begin to tighten upon removal, reapply the penetrant, screw them back in until the penetrant penetrates the threads, and then pull it out again. . The work took less than an hour. Jack up the rear of the vehicle, install the stand, remove the rear wheels, disconnect the air line connection, remove the upper nut, remove the lower bolts (2), compress the shock absorber to reduce its disassembly size, and pull out the shock absorber. . Transfer nut plates from the old shocks to the new shocks, apply anti-seize to the bottom bolts, install the shock into the top mount, apply Lock Tite to the top mount threads, tighten the nut to manufacturer's specifications, lengthen the shock until it stops. lower control arm (make sure your air connection is facing rearward or backwards) install the lower bolts and torque to manufacturer's specifications (easy. These nuts can snap) and reinstall your air lines. It actually raised the rear of my car about 1 inch and it drives amazingly like a much newer car.
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