Review on NGK 3403 TR55GP G-Power Spark Plug - Single Pack (SEO optimized) by Brian Rogers

Ford E350 XLT 12 Passenger 2010 5.4L V8. I hate finding out what cars people put parts in. Items arrived on time and in good condition. After installation I compared the two covers - old and new - and the new ones were actually over 1/4 inch longer (I DID NOT CUT THEM). Luckily my old boots were dry (no oil seeping into the spark plug wells). So I changed boots. It was very easy to swap them out, but be careful not to stretch the coil spring. The plugs were precalibrated to .054" specs for my car as advertised (I checked every kennel) prior to starting the project, as well as another video of actually replacing spark plugs and coils. SKILLS REQUIRED: This is beginner to intermediate level , befriends a weekend MechWarrior It's not"easy" but it's not"difficult" either. Proceed slowly and carefully, and continue to refer to the video above. TOOLS Needed Tools: Spark Plug Gap Setting Tool - if you are making spark plugs at the same time Spark plugs too Although I have no idea why you would need to take out and remove the coils without replacing the $30-35 spark plugs Extension 8 - to remove the Spark plug. 1/4" wrench - for removing air intake hoses and screws holding coils. 5/8" spark plug head (the one with the rubber boot that holds the spark plugs t) - Again when repairing spark plugs. Air (to flush the spark plug wells) - Trust me, there was a lot of dirt/dust in there. my candle wells. ACCESSORIES: Shop rags Latex gloves Dielectric silicone grease (It doesn't clearly state on this product that the coils come with two silver packets of dielectric grease the size of a bag of sugar. This is for the bottom of the boots to protect the spark. Pin where it is connected to the coil I am a bit used electrical connections of the coil and injector connections of the ignition coils and passenger unit spark plugs CHECK the length of the old boot coils before installing to make sure they are long The spark plug gap for my car is 0.054"-15 to 20 ft. lbs to prevent spark plugs from backing out due to shallow thread depth in engine heads. All injector plugs and coil plugs on the full line of spark plugs and coils - driver's side first (easiest), then passenger side (somewhat harder) This made accessing things with a wrench MUCH easier . .From the driver's side - I made 2 front ones from the engine bay and 2 rear ones from the van. On the passenger side - 2 from the engine compartment, 2 at the rear from inside the van. TEST RIDE: A few slow miles and I could definitely tell a difference in performance. Whether it was spark plugs or coils I don't know and haven't had it since. Tried it on the Autobahn and about 25% more power compared to burned out old spark plugs and old coils. Bottom line: a few minor cuts, ankle bumps and some swearing, and it lasted around 2-3 hours with interruptions on the phone. I made coils because I was already in the engine to make 90,000 spark plugs for my van. The spark plugs were HORRIBLE with a huge gap and all burned out. This didn't surprise me as I noticed a serious lack of strength. I used cheap NGKs on my van that I found here at Revain and these coils. After installation, my test drive was amazing. I couldn't believe the spark plugs blew at 90k but I tow a boat in this car so it gets some stress on long drives and during everyday driving it's a football van. .