This was a very quick and easy replacement that almost any owner could do themselves in under five minutes . (without paint lining). The clarity of the mirror is no worse than the factory mirror, and the engine worked perfectly. I reused the original foam gasket from the old mirror because it looked like it provided a slightly better seal around the white engine harness connector. Three standard tools required: 5/16 wrench, 10mm wrench/socket. /Wrench and flathead screwdriver. The plastic interior trim near the mirror is removed by hand exposing two small nuts and one large nut. A third small nut is hidden behind a black plastic plug along the front edge of the door. It is easy to remove. Be careful to unscrew the nuts without letting them fall into the door. After all four mounting nuts have been removed, the trick to removing the old mirror is to use a flathead screwdriver to press down on the "wings" of the white plastic tape. Socket inwards so that the mirror can be removed. The new mirror snaps securely into place and the threaded mounting posts fit perfectly into the holes in the door. I wouldn't put a plastic covering on a mirror unless you're sure you're not going to paint it. Removing the old painted trim is not easy, so there is a chance the plastic clips will break if you attach them before painting. My rubber came with a clip that was slightly bent, but for now that's not a problem. I paint it before going any further as my old finish is too worn to be polished and made presentable. Also, I want to get as perfect a fit as possible with the pad that comes with the mirror. Paying $36 for a mirror is much better than paying almost $200 or more for a dealer to make it easy and convenient for the owner. a task.
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