Review on 🖨️ MakerBot MP07825EU Replicator 3D Printer: Unparalleled Printing Precision and Efficiency by Vedavyas Fleming

7/5/20 Additional Tips: To counteract possible nozzle clogging (this can happen with any 3D printer), try a 0.4mm -Bit. Developed for cleaning extruder nozzles. This seems much better than the spontaneously unfolded paperclip I used. Strong pressure on the thread does not clean the nozzle. You need a more subtle solution. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076DDP6LM/ref=crt_ewc_img_dp_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2W194EW0STVXR- Makerbot filament is a great material, I use it at 220C for mechanical parts. If you can make a stand for standard 1kg hatchbox rolls or a floss winder out of a hand drill, you can burn through cheaper creative floss. I would say that it is not worth the time spent and therefore worth paying a little more for a quality thread. The cool gray prints details very well. - Increase layer height from 0.2mm to 0.3mm to reduce time for larger prints. I prefer this to monitoring networks. I only use the MakerBot Print software for parts that I know will print properly. There aren't enough controls in MakerBot Print to solve problems. I started using 123Design CAD a while ago, but have found FreeCAD to work well for my simple parts. It is necessary to restart the program from time to time when it freezes. Much easier to work with this free software than AutoCAD! Start sketching in the Part Design and Part desktops and watch tutorials on YouTube. - You can print with Simplify3D software without liners or edges by setting the first layer thickness to 200% and the fan speed to 0% for the first layer. In the end I set the fan speed to 0% on layers 1-2, 60% on layer 3, 100% on all other layers. Make sure your Z alignment is close. Also, the napkin line needs to be at least a little flat before printing.- 215 degrees makes the MakerBot filament stick better to the bed on the first layer.- For reliable and durable mechanical parts, I prefer MakerBot's gray filament. - Overall, I like the solid build and the fact that I don't have to assemble and adjust the frame myself. - Don't take up too much space on your first few prints. Round corners are much better. It is almost impossible to prevent the base layer from rising and curling up on sizes over 2 inches. As you gain experience, you will learn how to print large objects. First Review: Pros: 1) The build plate does not require glue or blue tape, the pieces will snap off. 2) iPhone/iPad to monitor progress via web. 3) MakerBot Print is good for beginners. 4) Simplify3D's third-party slicer works well and has enough controls to drive the machine properly. You can run a decent USB management setup on Linux. 5) The machine works well with regular PLA (Hatchbox) filament at lower temperatures (195-200°C). 6) The frame seems pretty solid, the build plate seems pretty rigid. 7) The Extruder+ feels solid but doesn't have the occasional connectivity issue. The Bad: 1) The factory alignment starts out fine but doesn't seem quite right for more than a 20x20mm test print. To make matters worse, the alignment procedure in the diagnostics doesn't work at all on my device. The extruder head contact sensor (if present) does not turn on the light at all. Alignment must be guessed at by observing the quality of the substrate on each print, looking for poor adhesion, wavy patterns on the filament, or breakage. 2) The MakerBot Print Slicer seems to be hitting the extruder too hard, creating corners or circles in the first layer. not stick properly. There aren't enough controls to resolve all the issues I've observed. I finally found the Simplify3D software, it prints rafts much better and doesn't slam the extruder. MakerBot Print seems to make my machine click pretty hard, even with the extruder returning to its original position when not printing. 3) Rafts printed with MakerBot Print tend to detach from the build plate. Not thick enough thread to hold them. Also, the dense bottom tends to separate from the leg layers. Really bad! Fix it with a soft pad or even better switch to Simplify3D. 4) The build plate has several holes through which the coating material hangs. You will get poor adhesion to these areas. 5) Printing from iPhone/iPad doesn't work in most cases because you need to scale and adjust the objects you collect on Thingiverse. 6) Hand thrust does not work. It doesn't seem to work in Simplify3D, but you get a temperature graph. 7) Many support cases are too complex to solve, so don't expect more than one answer. 8) The included high temperature filament seems to be strong, but it is difficult for the extruder to maintain the 215℃ printing temperature. My temperature often drops below 205°C. This is my first 3D printer but probably a bit overpriced for what you get. But the beginner experience is great. Less wasted time getting started than with a cheap printer. Next time I will probably choose the Prusa Mark 3 or Ultimaker 3 for more flexibility and cheaper software.