I used this to repair a corner stud on a foundation. The original footage was lost, so I had to create a new one. I used this lag screw to support the new angle. I drilled through the old concrete, added epoxy for the anchors, tightened the bolts, let them dry, set the form, and then sanded down the new concrete. The repair looks good (professional even) and appears to be very stable (time will tell). To determine the right size, you need to decide how deep the screw goes. I wanted my 1.5" to stick out to act as reinforcement for the concrete and drilled about 1.25" deep into the existing foundation, so I used 2.75" screws. If you else Fasten material, consider its width plus the depth you want to drill the screw to. Be sure to use anchor epoxy for a permanent attachment. A note on drilling holes for these screws: MANY drill bits are advertised as good for concrete, but they aren't.You'll need a fairly long drill (longer than the length of the screw you're going to drive into the concrete), and it should be a REAL CONCRETE DRILL - like the "Bosch BM5000 Fast Spiral Masonry Set". need to use the correct width of the drill bit, otherwise you may damage the concrete (if the drill bit is too narrow) or won't hold the screw (if the drill bit is too wide).The length is really hard to get when you are in a limited space work, so take that into account. If you have a wide-open workspace, you'll need to determine how deep you want to put the screw and make sure you have a slightly longer drill bit - put a piece of tape on it to show how deep you drilled needs to be done and when the tape is level. You stop with concrete. If, like me, you have a really limited area, you'll also need to determine how much extra drill you need to put into the area to even reach the drill point (I could get the drill about 2-3 inches from the hole). and no closer). That means you have to add that much to the total length of a bit to make your project work. Finding long enough masonry drill bits can be a real challenge.
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