I had a Raspberry Pi 4 in a metal case and figured the aluminum would act as a heatsink for the CPU chip. It did somewhat, but weakened my WIFI signal better. So I looked around for another case and found a Smraza case packaged in a lovely little box. The kit included the case itself and its smoky transparent cover, a small fan with mounting screws, heatsinks for heat-sensitive Raspberry Pi 4 chips, a Raspberry Pi switching power supply, a small screwdriver, instructions and the necessary screws. To assemble the case and mount the board of the Raspberry Pi 4. The top and the two halves of the case came pre-assembled, so I had to loosen the four screws that attach the top to the base and the two screws that attach the bottom of the case to the other half. Remembering how easy it used to be to lose those little screws, I put all the hardware in the empty box that the case came in. The top half of the case has hooks to attach it to the bottom half. Be careful not to break these hooks. Slightly tilt the top half of the case, slide it back over the USB ports and lower the back panel. You secure it from below with two screws that were removed during the first disassembly. I couldn't remove the heatsinks that came with my previous case from the Raspberry Pi chips, so I left them. The heatsinks that come with the Smraza case are much larger and undoubtedly provide more heat dissipation. I don't overclock my Raspberry Pi to keep the Pi chips from getting very hot. If the cooling isn't enough, I'll have to find a way to take the old ones off and replace them with Smraza radiators. Adding the circuit board to the case so that all the connectors line up with the bottom and the holes in the top half of the connector took some trial and error. I aligned everything by loosely securing the Raspberry Pi to the bottom of the case so it could wiggle the top half. Then, using the screwdriver that came with it, I tightened the two screws holding the computer board in place, and then replaced the two screws holding the top and bottom halves together. Remove the protective tape on both sides before attaching the top to the case. and attach a fan to it. I cut open the pocket with the fan and the clasps; he too was thrown into the chest of the trunk. It is possible to install a fan both with air extraction from the case and with air injection into the case. There are arrows on the side of the fan showing the direction of airflow. I chose to let the air flow into the case because I thought this orientation would be more efficient for cooling the computer chips. The fan is attached to the underside of the top section with four bolts and nuts. I had more trouble removing the protective tape than installing the fan. Finally, I started peeling the tape off, using a razor blade to pry open the corner. In my experience, when working on a project, the things you least expect are the most frustrating. The fan power cables can be connected to either the positive 5V pin on the Raspberry Pi or the 3.3V pin. It depends on how much airflow you want. I chose a 3.3V pin with a lower fan speed. The specific GPIO pins for these connections are listed on the first page of the included instructions. The top threads into four threaded brass grommets, allowing it to be removed and reinstalled many times without removing it. The last thing to do is attach the legs to the bottom of the assembled case. The feet are small rubber stickers attached to four marked indentations on the bottom of the case. Attaching it was the easiest part of the whole project. The cutouts in the Smraza case fit all the computer ports so snugly that it looks like they're built into the Raspberry Pi board. Looks neat. As a result, I was left with an extra screw or two of each type. With the small size of the screws used in this project, it's nice that Smraza includes extras. While I don't think assembling the Raspberry Pi and assembling the Smraza case was easy, it is a project not beyond the skill of a beginner who takes the time to study the instructions before tackling the construction begins. I've learned that when you're working with anything made of plastic, you can't squeeze anything. If it doesn't connect easily, it's not designed for it or something isn't aligned. When fastened, the top of the housing does not close flush with the housing. It is raised slightly to allow cables from the GPIO pins or an attached camera to exit the case through the raised opening. This hole also serves to let out the air blown by the fan. This is the first time I have an official Raspberry Pi power supply. Its on/off button is definitely a plus, and its 3 amp rating allows me to add accessories that are powered by the USB ports. The Smraza case is a good Raspberry Pi 4 case well worth the time to build.
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