Overall I think I'd recommend this case if you're ok with the issues or want to modify the case. My system: ZZAW power supply B3 Corsair SF750 SFX mainboard MSI B550 Mortar mATXAMD Ryzen 5600XCrucial Ballistix DDR4-3600 RAM (4x8GB)SK Hynix P31 1TB M.2 (2x)EVGA 3080ti XC3 GamingNoctua NH-U9S CPU cooler (with optional NF-A9 fan ) Noctua NF-A9 rear fan Noctua NF-B9 redux-1600 PWM above (3x) Noctua NF-S12B redux-1200 PWM below (2x) Advantages: Extremely low weight. 4.3 lbs for everything at my weight - solid aluminum thickness. I found the panels were thick enough that I wasn't worried about sagging or bending. - Very small - Good number of fans - Hole pattern is very open. Holes with a diameter of 12 mm with a center distance of 14 mm. Online calculators show this to be 66% open. - Support for a large number of fans. Cons: - Only 3x90mm fans fit on the top. 120mm will depend a lot on your motherboard, I couldn't mount mine due to the heatsink on the edge of the motherboard. And if you have multiple mITX boards like the MSI B550 or the Gigabyte B550 (the CPU socket is closer to the edge), I doubt you'll even be able to mount all the 92mm fans on top. The top vents are mostly blocked for some stupid reason. due to the fact that the holes of the inner metal plate are offset from the holes of the outer case. - There is no front vent for the PSU fan, so it has to draw air from inside. - Hole placement causes turbulence for fans sucking air, resulting in hum at medium to high speeds - Very easy to scratch - Red glass power button and thumbscrews. This helped reduce noise and lower temperatures, but I think the computer would have worked without the mods. It wouldn't be as ideal with a high performance/temperature graphics card like mine though. I didn't have very many good metal cutting tools, so it doesn't look very clean. rear fan as air intake to CPU cooler. If the CPU cooler fans are "flipped" in the same way, blowing hot air from the back to the front. - 2 CPU cooling fans. This was done so I could keep the fans running at 50-60% of maximum and still have the same cooling efficiency as a single fan running at 100%. Much less noise. Cut fan holes on the inner piece of metal holding the top fans so that only the holes on the outside of the case are blocking airflow. Completely cut out the fan holes below for two 120mm fans. This increases airflow and eliminates the annoying noise created when the fan pulls air through the vents. Completely cut out the fan holes on the back for a 92mm fan. For the same reason as cutting the bottom holes. — Cut a large hole in the front of the case in front of the PSU fan and attach the 120mm hex fan shroud to it. - Turn the power supply over so that the fan faces the front. It might have been fine without it, but when my CPU exhaust was blown directly into the PSU, I wasn't very happy with the PSU's cooling. - Sanded down the red power button (it was aluminum) so it wasn't red. - 8-pin motherboard. Power cable, PSU power cable, USB, power button cable under the motherboard. Used tape to hold them in place. Added 1/2" high rubber feet. Cooling/Noise. Temperature readings obtained can be highly dependent on fan curves, which I adjusted slightly to get the balance I was looking for. My CPU temperature almost never rises above 60° under load C. Sometimes it can drop to 70 C. Cinebench R23 multi-core tests take it up to 63 C. My GPU never gets above 80 C and usually runs in the 69-75 C range when gaming. At idle, normal web browsing, I can't hear my computer (it's standing on the floor next to me) - At full power, I hear the fans and airflow, but no buzzing/buzzing or any other annoying noise - perfectly acceptable and just as good as the much larger mATX case I had before with fewer fans Normal front to back airflow from the CPU cooler resulted in higher CPU temperatures Much better was the rear airflow to the CPU cooler.
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