Review on ProRem 8 66X8 📦 66X9 84In 220X220X250Mm Removable Certified by Bernardino Suazo

I am completely satisfied with this printer and I don't think that the extra price adds value or improves the prints, all great. The product arrived perfectly, excellent packaging, all parts included, no hardware problems. This is my first 3D printer, so I want anyone new to 3D printing to have a realistic perspective. I've printed jigs and parts that are useful in my carpentry shop and a few things for the printer itself. I found success early on, then had a lot of trouble sticking prints on, then plateaued with great success with limited trouble. Prints that fail early can be easily stopped and restarted from the home screen. What to expect: • Steep learning curve, documentation is ok but doesn't solve everything, lots of bugs and lots of fixes you get quickly if you do. • Take the time to assemble the printer, align the frame pieces, and watch some assembly videos on YouTube. They ensure fast printing success. • Remove and clean the magnetic sheet with warm, soapy water to remove grease or dirt. Then gently pat dry to dry, avoiding touching the surface to avoid greasing your fingers. • If the magnetic sheet lies flat but crooked, this is normal and not a problem. I had to trim each side of the board 1/8-1/4 inch so it didn't touch the Z-rails but lay absolutely flat. • Bed alignment and cleanliness are two of the most important control points to consider Printing. I used to clean the bed with acetone and isopropyl alcohol, but since I now only use soap and water to clean I've had so many successful molds and didn't remove the magnetic sheet at all, just using a spatula. Oil, no need to clean, and all plastics are removed. • Using a 0.004 inch (1.0mm) feeler gauge, adjust the bed all the way around so the tip just touches the feeler gauge but doesn't push too hard as you can actually push the bed down and then bounce it back can and get too close to the bed. Early on, stick with 0.2 or 0.3mm slices in the Cura slicing software (update the software to the current version). I think a pen is better than paper as paper can be crushed and fractions of paper thickness can be critical to successful prints. Return the head to its original position, place the bed directly underneath it, disable the stepper motors on the ender screen, then rotate the head and start leveling the bed with the jig. You can make 4 corners in just one inch or you can also check many other places on the bed to make sure the bed is flat and cup free too. • Printing can take a long time, which is why getting the first layer right and gluing it is so critical to success. • Cura's default settings sometimes work and sometimes don't, but custom settings offer a much higher chance of successfully gluing prints to the platform. *** The first layer is absolutely the most important layer. *** If it is not perfect or close to perfect, the print will most likely fail for many reasons such as: B. Lifting at corners, shrinking, popping out, skipping, spaghetti mess, etc. . I only use 15-20mm/s instead of the standard 30mm/s. Go to settings/preferences/visibility settings and make some settings visible in the user window. 50mm/s is the normal print speed after the first layer. Top/bottom cover thickness can increase the strength of many prints you need • Experiment with padding. Typically 20-50% is used when the solid does not require 100% fill. Over 50% doesn't really help much unless it becomes fully solid • Supports help, but aren't necessary for every slightly hung-over part unless you want a flawless print, not a shop-mandated print • Paste added a few extra lines for skirts up to 5 which can help identify threading and early bleeding issues. Margins are good for narrow and tall prints. Rafts can help with uniquely shaped prints for early adhesion and layering. • Cura remembers the settings from the previous print, so you don't have to start from scratch each time. • When the print is complete, Cura enters a Gcode that the steppers are disabled, allowing you to move your head or bed, but not quickly unless they are disabled. and from the lead screw Z. Changing the color is easy: heat the tip, then remove the thread and insert a different color. The skirt/edges etc have primed the paint so the item is solid color in the new colour. A solid table surface is good, nothing wobbles or wobbles. The spatula that comes with it is super, sharp and removes marks very well. the colors you like and also try some test colors that come in small loose spools of around 50g. I printed a small spool to hold the test colors, which helps with printing to allow the filament to rotate more smoothly. I leave the printer running almost continuously. I have dozens more things I want to print and I'm just waiting to review them all and at this point I'll be sure to add many more. Have fun and be creative. Lots of free printable files, millions of them. Yeggi.com is a great file finder for 3D printing along with myminifactory.com and thingiverse.com.