Is ordered instead of a dealer part, which is about 3 times more expensive. Oddly, a 3/4" deep SAE socket is inserted and removed, not a metric socket. In my case (1991 MB 300-SEL M103) it's easiest to remove from the driver's side. The sensor is tilted slightly to that side Coolant leaks when pulled out even if the filler cap is loose Change when the engine is cold My case Disconnect the connector and connect a jumper wire from the connector to a good metal ground on the engine I used the engine lift bracket on the rear of the engine - it's right next to it. Now get in the car and turn on the ignition. 2nd position. Do not start the car. If the temperature gauge needle jumps all the way up, your dash sensor is fine and the problem is either with that faulty sensor or with the wiring.Another thing to understand, your old sensor didn't work at all either (the temperature needle never did reached zero) or it was low. After the exchange, you can see the highway well. about 87C. This makes sense as your M103 engine probably has an 87C thermostat. When idling in a traffic jam or driving slowly in a traffic jam, the needle rises to 90 ° C / 95 ° C - normal. These M103 engines get very hot. I've found that running with a lower coolant concentration helps reduce the heat a bit. 60% water - 40% coolant. This may not be possible for those living in very cold climates. Works great south of Mason-Dixon. Coolant does not conduct heat well. The Water Wetter product also helps here.
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