Couldn't be better for the price. The quality of the prints is amazing as is the build quality, I can't understand why the price is so low. Edit: I've encountered a few issues since purchasing it, so I've deducted a few stars. List them below: 1. Since the portal is only supported on one side, it will sag to the right over time. Without support, the gantry sags so much that the right side of the build plate needs to be fully tightened to be level. This was fixed by purchasing a 6mm rod and linear bearing and 3D printing a portal brace. There are several different patterns on the clothes to choose from.2. The bed heater is VERY weak, for sure it only reaches 70 degrees (60 degrees from the UI). When printing via USB, the LCD will not display the print until the platform heats up, which is very inconvenient for the user and may cause the printer to fail. I don't know of any solution other than patience.3. The standard hotend is only suitable for PLA and is prone to jamming due to the gap between the PTFE tubing leading to the heatsink and the thermal break of the hotend. This can be reduced by inserting a Teflon hose into the thermal separation, but not completely eliminated. I ended up replacing the hotend entirely with an E3D V6 hotend with an all-metal thermal break and was very happy with the upgrade. Highly recommended. I also recommend using the "Zero Offset" mounting kit for E3d V6 from thingiverse.4. The metal bites into the wire where it exits the top of the printer and eventually cuts through the wire. The solution is to use a better cable wrap, like one of those braided cable wraps.5. This printer is too cumbersome to disassemble for general maintenance. There is no point in using so many unnecessary screws to remove the panels. 6. An aluminum bed warps just like aluminum. This causes the edges of the print to be too close to the nozzle while the center of the platform is too far from the nozzle. A piece of glass sitting on the platform will fix this. That brings me to my next point.7. It is not possible to relocate the Z-Stop stem (allowing you to raise the original position of the hot end). In order to work you have to 3D print the gasket, which is pretty silly. Temperature readings are inaccurate and there is no way to fully calibrate them, meaning you have to calculate them yourself for each filament.9. The extruder stepper motor driver tends to overheat, I assume the stepper motor is a bit weak for the job. However, upgrading the extruder body with an aftermarket MK8 body with adjustable filament intake pressure and adding a fan to the stepper heatsink will solve your problem. This leads to my last point.10. The connector on the circuit board for the stepper fan is defective, the MOSFET for it was soldered incorrectly. This means you have to keep the fan running at 100% all the time instead of adjusting its temperature, which can be a little annoying to hear.
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