Review on InstaJACK JK-100NR 12V Remote Controlled Automatic Car Jack - Instant Versatility by Will Kern

I used this jack to remove the wheels to change the brake pads and rotate. This did the job, but I had to tweak a few things first. 1-The plastic cap on top of the jack will break if you don't place the jack in the exact correct position. The tip of the piece of plastic appears to be designed to keep the jack from slipping off the car's jack point. Placing the slot of the jack (under the vehicle) squarely in the slot of the plastic cover will prevent the jack from sliding under or out of the vehicle. The problem is that when lifting the jack, you need to pay attention to each step and make sure you're doing it right. Otherwise, the pressure will break this piece of plastic like mine did. I would recommend the company to use a metal part instead of plastic. I think the fourth time I jacked my car it broke in two. This does not affect the functionality of the jack, but is a safety measure. 2-The description says it can lift the weight of cars/vans/SUVs/light trucks. This is not true considering where your power comes from. I have a basic sedan (Subaru Impreza) and if I lift one of the wheels as soon as I get to the point where the wheel needs to be lifted off the ground you can hear the unit struggle a little and it slows down. At this point, the device consumes more power than the cigarette lighter can provide. The 10 amp fuse in the cigarette lighter blows every time. As far as I know, all cigarette lighters are 10 amps. The device can draw 15 amps before the fuse blows. So when the wheel is lifted it tries to draw more amps than the lighter can supply and *POP*, the fuse blows and your car gets stuck in the air. This is a serious fundamental problem as it needs to be powered by a cigarette lighter socket. I can only assume that this only works with a light small car. So now to what I did to work around this power issue. I bought an adapter from a radio store with a cigarette lighter socket on one end and alligator clips on the other. 10. I used this to power the jacks directly from the battery. It worked like a charm. Now it rises without resistance and does not blow any fuses. It has a 15 amp fuse and it hasn't blown, so I'm guessing it draws 10-15 amps to get the corner of the car all the way up. For heavier vehicles, you will definitely need to draw power directly from the battery. Since I was doing this work at home, I decided to use one of the outlets in the garage instead of the battery. I had an old car charger laying around that was great at converting AC to DC. The great thing about this setup was that I had 3 charging settings: 2 amp jet current, 10 amp fast charge and 50 amp starting current. At 10 amps, like the lighter, it slowly increased as it began to assume its full weight. However, on the 50 amp setting, he lifted the car with no problem. In order to give this product 5 stars, the company had to do it. 1 - Replace the plastic guide / anti-slip piece with a steel cigarette lighter on the alligator clips, lengthen the cable so that the battery powered jack can easily reach all the jacking points 3 - Provide for the possibility of manual lowering Jack. At one point the remote didn't work when lowered, but still worked when raised. Also, if a fuse blows, there's no way to lower it, leaving your machine stuck. In addition, if the engine fails, a means of lowering is required.