Review on Enhanced TrueTwo Wrangler JK Jeep 2.5 Inch Coil Spacer Suspension Lift Kit for Optimal Performance by Justin Spoja

My dad and I installed it today and I wanted to share some of the things I learned. In the beginning I was looking back and forth for what to buy, watched a million videos and studied many different kits. The local workshop wanted 300-400 to install including frontend alignment (more on that later). They also wanted the 850 to have a 2.5-inch Rough County lift with dampers and springs. I didn't want to compromise on ride quality as my Jeep is quiet and smooth, I also prefer to do my own work so I went with this kit. First, these are rigid polypropylene washers, exactly 2.5 inches in diameter, very strong. You need NO additional parts to install, no shock absorbers, no coils, no stabilizer bar extensions, nothing. One-half inch washers are factory installed on the front and rear of your Jeep. You can leave them on and install them for a maximum height of 2.5 inches, or if you want to level your Jeep, remove and reinstall the rear shim. front with new washer. This gives 2.5 inches in the front and 2 inches in the rear, and in my case my Jeep rose exactly 38.5 inches from the bottom of the center tire to the front and rear fenders. As for the placement of the washer and gasket, I removed the gasket and installed the washer, then reinstalled the factory gasket and then the spool. He seemed more stable that way. The installation only took about 4 hours with help. Jacked up in the middle as high as possible, two jackstands set up on either side but keeping the axle supported. I removed the sway bar links, disconnected the brake lines, removed the drive shaft because it's automatic, removed the lower shock bolts, then we lowered the axle all the way so I was able to remove the spools with no problem. and install the washers before replacing the factory front spacers. Then we screwed the coils back in until they hit the metal stop, then lifted the axle and started reassembling everything in reverse order. We used open-end wrenches and a hammer drill with impact drill bits. We used Loctite on the drive shaft bolts when reinstalling. I also installed 1.5" spacers when reinstalling the tires to give the larger tires a little more clearance and a more aggressive stance. The front took about 2-3 hours and the back was much easier, took about 30 minutes or so. Jacked up rear wheel in center differential, removed tire, unscrewed lower stabilizer bolts, unscrewed shock bolts, released brake and ABS, dropped axle, removed coils, kicked out factory 1/2" spacer, installed shims and reinstalled everything in reverse order. We have a scroll compressor rented but we didn't need it, if you can get the axle deep enough front and rear you don't need it at all I'll level the front while we played around with the wishbones and anti-roll bars, that seems the recommended way to go. Some also report that the steering wheel needs to be aligned to this which we didn't have, just be sure to align the wheels when starting, if it's an easy fix that only takes a few minutes just google it The photos that I have attached to show only the front shims installed so you can use the optis can see the difference in front and behind. Note the difference in clearance between the front wheel and fender. Ride quality wise it's exactly the same after installation, I plan to add bigger tires soon to add 5 inches overall. I'm glad I went this route, my wife and kids are still getting by with a little jump and I've saved nearly $750.