The photos above are from my experimental testing. BAD POINTS: 1) 100w is great for placing staples in plastic, but too weak to properly melt the filler. This occurs when trying to spread the molten plastic and requires a flatter surface before it breaks. 3) When used vertically, a thin film of molten plastic flows down the spatula and gets caught between the spatula and the heating pins, which turn into an insulating sheath. Bad connection, needs to be cleaned before proceeding. 4) No adjustable heat control. ADVANTAGES: 1) Easy to use 2) Short learning curve 3) Makes a very good and strong weld 4) Teeth stay cool on the outside, but only when the spatula is not attached. WORKING TIPS: After selecting the shackle to use and inserting it into the gun, place the shackle on the plastic while pulling the trigger until the shackle begins to melt with the plastic, and gently pull upwards while You wiggle it slightly The plastic covers the top staples, stop pulling and don't move until you see the golden plastic dry. Then raise the gun and cut the clip. I have also found that in some cases, e.g. B. On flat surfaces, a pair of small end mills will provide a tighter cut than the included diagonal cutters. When using cored wire? Wearing heat-resistant leather gloves, use a propane torch to melt the stick and a wooden-handled metal spatula to spread the melted plastic, but heat the spatula so the plastic doesn't stick to it. WARNINGS: 1) Use heat resistant leather gloves, I use a Snap-On glide glove, not a welding glove. 2) This is obvious, however. DO NOT touch the orthosis, it could burn you. 3) Be careful, the ends of the clips may protrude past the applied melted plastic and cut your fingers. at an early stage.
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