Chevy Cruze, 2015 LT. I must say right away that the swivel key blade mount is NOT the same as the factory version. The cut corners are too flat. You CANNOT take an assembled blade from an existing keychain and slip it into this case, as other reviewers and respondents have incorrectly claimed. The components have the right dimensions but not the right angles. This requires more labor and tools than necessary. The first option is to find a slotted blade cutter, which is largely limited to dealerships and ACE hardware stores in the US. This is machine cut and requires little training, charging $20-$70 to cut the blade in this set to match your existing key blade. This means that this $10 set requires a total of at least $30 to complete. Pop your old circuit board and battery into this thing and you're good to go again. A less obvious second solution is to pull out the coil spring pin that holds the blade in the pivot mount. Do this on the original and new keys, then you can insert the blade, which is already embedded, into the new swivel bracket. If you have small paperclips, you can pinch the end of one with pliers and hammer the pliers to create a makeshift hole punch to make this easier. Assemble the key by pushing the pin back with even force (e.g. with a vise) and make sure to flip the pin from its original position to better hold it with an additional threadlocker. Congratulations, you've just pasted your old flat key into this new MacGyver block. For reference, the photo shows the disassembled remains of the old assembly and the unused new blade. Both solutions require skills and tools not included in this kit. This is NOT a one-size-fits-all solution, and it doesn't come cheap if you lack additional tools or skills. Spend a little more money on better kits that are properly measured and accurately replicated, if only to save yourself some expense or hassle with this unit. This is a perfect example that cheaper is not necessarily better. The quality of the plastic is the same as a standard Chevy key fob. The keys are made from a harder plastic, while the factory models use a rubberized membrane, so this new unit is stiffer. As a plastics expert from a decade of molding and printing, I also believe that the edges of the buttons will crack within a few years, while traditional keychains last a full year. Decade. But for the price it doesn't really matter. The previously mentioned coil spring pin is not the same as the factory pin. Chevy uses regular spring steel, while the one in this kit is a hard alloy with molded ribs to provide traction by biting rather than stretching to create friction. For this reason, I recommend Loc-Tite, clear nail polish, or some other threadlocker to ensure the cheaper pin stays in place (and the same goes for your all-important key blade!). This is an odd choice for this product. The key blade release spring is much, much thinner, weaker and less twisted than a standard spring. It bends on its own, and under normal tension, the lead constantly twists and becomes unusable. The tolerance of this spring is too tight and the quality is too low. If your original nib is still good, by all means use it. The one in this set could also be junk. It doesn't even stick to the magnets (the original does), which is a bad sign for a spring alloy. In any case, for my model there is an improvement over the stock key: the circuit has grooves and holes for stabilization and alignment, but the stock key does not. have corresponding platforms cast in plastic. This pendant has the correct pins, making chain alignment and installation much easier and safer. Well done. I would only say no because of the quality. However, this kit is workable if you know what you're getting into, and decent value if you're willing to tinker and strip old parts. A worthy purchase for those with a workbench and time, a difficult pass for regular buyers.
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