I do a lot of fancy woodwork. The best way to use this T-bevel is to measure the cutting angle. Using it as a protractor won't work because the two arms aren't in the same plane, even though they are parallel. Your saw doesn't cut perfectly straight to begin with, so dimensions may vary depending on how and where you hold the T-Bevel. This isn't a straight edge either because the arms are too short. On some things the levers are too long or the protrusion of the screw gets in the way, like in the project problem below: I need to drill a 3/4" hole in the bottom of the spinner with a forstner bit. This is a compound angle with a length of 135° and a width of 115° on the narrower side. I have an 18" jet bench drill. The holes are near the edges of the wood. This cannot be done accurately with a Rockler or HF guide for a variety of reasons. The drill press is leveled using a magnetic goniometer (available here). Parallel and perpendicular lines are made on the table of the drill with a mark. The table can rise and fall, rotate about the drill stand, rotate about its own axis, and tilt about an axis perpendicular to the drill stand. The horizontal rotation at 0° relative to the tripod can only be estimated (by eye). Using a goniometer, the table tilts 135° (actually 45 out of 90). I take 2 adult sized tongue depressors (because they are flimsy) and drill a hole in the center of a radius on each stick for screw and wing nut loop (you can use popsicle sticks but they are not as wide and drill holes for screw and wing nut without that splitting wood, harder than it looks). I shorten one of the presser legs to fit under the drill press chuck. I set this digital bevel to 115° and use it to set the reed plates to this 115°. Then I turn the table around its axis so that the angle between one of the horizontal parallels and the shaft of the Forstner bit corresponds to the angle of the tongue depressor. I clamp the workpiece and its victim along one of the vertical parallel lines drawn on the table with the drill's laser guides and align the laser cross in the center of the target for drilling. After drilling, I can check the angles of the drilled hole by putting a 3/4" dowel in the hole and measuring the angles with a T-square. Without using much more expensive hardware I haven't found a better way to do this. ● If you drill holes for chair legs, etc., you may find that this works for you.
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