Review on 🔑 High-Quality Key Fob Keyless Entry Remote Set for Ford, Lincoln, Mercury, Mazda - Compatible with F150 F250 F350 Escape Expedition Explorer Ranger and More (2-Pack) by Barry Smallwood

Everything works when properly connected. 1) you need exactly 2 thin CR2016 batteries in one key fob, so that in total there is 6 Volts of power on the key fob, and not one similar thick 3 Volt. Then the remote control works fine - it works for me even from the 17th floor, the car is under the windows. 2) I hesitated to look for the exact wiring diagram to make it work. Many write that they closed the circuit from a blunt connection of different wires and the whole circuit burned out. In their fucking instructions, it is not written anywhere that you need to connect wires of 2 and 3 pieces to each other and already connect this braid. Therefore, I drew on their diagram what to do to make it work. I repeat with the text: a) Yellow-green and black-and-white are connected to the wires of the lock activator. b) Green-gray is twisted together with orange-white and attached to the Mass (i.e. minus). c) Orange-gray is twisted with yellow-black and attached to +. I changed it because the circuit chips in the key fobs of the old alarm system died, and there is no place to buy these separately. I looked for the cheapest batteries for 37 rubles, and not for 150 rubles. apiece, otherwise it will turn out too bold that 4 batteries cost almost like the entire central lock itself. It’s good that the block is standard like from old signaling, so I didn’t pull or twist the braid in the car to the old signaling, but just looked at the diagram of the old signaling on the Internet, and took it out and rearranged the contacts into the new central locking block and that’s it. I connected everything for the sake of interest, and the light, and the siren, and the diode - everything works fine. There are no false positives.