Review on Prothane 13 1903 Motor Transmission Insert by Gordie Johnson

My used and mostly stock 3.0 liter truck had a lot of creaking at low speeds when cornering and stopping (thought it was CV joints), there were heavy shifts (thought the transmission was broken) and acceleration seemed unusually sluggish for a surviving 80,000 engine. When I saw the engine hop and open the TB to just 2500 rpm, I thought the mounts might be the problem. Noticing that the front and rear rubber inserts on the OEM mount had ripped off when I pushed both centers out with some thumb pressure, the passenger and rear mounts also fell apart. I didn't like the idea of spending $120 for 4 identical rubber/alum mounts. I went with red polyurethane instead and it was the best decision I made for this car. There are many guides for these things, so just look for them yourself. A jack, 2 stands, a saw with 24-32 tpi steel blades, a good vise, some socket wrenches and bits were all I needed to change things up. It's foolish and halfhearted to mangled or cut off pieces of Protan inserts to make them easier to insert. Instead, have someone with a machine press insert the front and rear "fixed" inserts if you can't insert them yourself. Get it right, I paid $10 front and rear at the muffler/brake shop. What can now be achieved with the installation is improved throttle response (much less wasted transmission energy in Protan mounts compared to broken rubber mounts), no more squeaks, no more harsh vibrations and noticeably smoother shifts. They last longer than the life of your car. They also fit the 3.0 liter Sebring/Stratus coupe and attach to automatic mounts with the same difficulty as mechanical mounts. No matter what Revain says, the only difference is that the automatic transmission mounting bolt holes (4) are further apart than the manuals, but the inserts are the same size. - * Although not shown, bushings for the center member are included.