🖼️ Enhance Your Framing Skills with the Logan Pro F400 1 Fitting Tool Review

It's pretty easy and pretty easy. It's not spring-loaded; It just helps you insert the tab directly into the frame at the right angle. Works exactly as it should, no frills. It's quite expensive for what it is, but cheaper in the long run than a bunch of framed art.

The tool didn't work. It might work if you try to insert intersections into a frame whose inner back edge is parallel to its outer side edge, but my frames have sides that flare out almost 45° forward (so the back opening is 20 x 16, but the frame's front edge is 18.5 x 22.5) and the dots went in diagonally and didn't last until I pushed hard and broke 2 corners of the glass. The rating is higher than I would have been but I didn't have to speak to anyone to download the return label so at…

I use it to insert flexible metal diamonds into picture frames. For that it works great. It is adjustable to accommodate different width photo frames. I would rate the build quality as good. I've used it several times so I'm not an active user. This works well for cutting diamonds in soft to medium hard woods. For harder woods like oak, I recommend filing the pointed ends of the diamonds a bit before use. This makes them easier to insert into hardwood. I use the flexible style of diamonds as…

Using this tool is so much better than trying to stick a glazier's point or hammer pins into the back of wooden frames. The instructions are clear and the tool is easy to use. It's very similar to an advanced hand stapler that you load one at a time and doesn't require a lot of hand strength. I have mainly used flexible tip inserts. (There are 50 inserts included, enough for about 8 medium sized frames.) To replace the missing poles on the other frames, all I had to do was rotate the bottom…

PERFECT! I took some old frames from thrift stores and put my drawings and photos in them. It was the only way to inexpensively reuse such frames. I already had a couple of perfectly sized needle nails (about ¾ inch) and the flexible tips proved helpful too. I agree with another reviewer who said the flex tips sit too deep in the tool thus preventing the driver from driving the point deep enough into frames, but it still works reasonably well in most cases. I can try their method with folded…

I made frames for some of my mother's paintings. The frames were poplar, poplar (both relatively soft), pear (medium-hard wood), and Japanese pagoda (very dense hardwood). The flexible tips that came with the tool worked really well on poplar and poplar and I liked them so much I will be ordering more. But they could not be driven into a pearwood frame. When I tried to apply more pressure you could actually see the shaft flexing and then the part of the tool holding the tips was cracked and…

I've been making frames for over 40 years a lot of experience with different types, to hold the material(s) of the substrate. For years I've used icing sticks (with little right-angled "wings" to make them easier to insert) and a hard trowel. This way you have a lot of control. Hammering these points so that the fenders are almost flush with the inside of the frame will give you a permanent penetration and if you need to remove one they are very easy to remove with the same spatula. "Tool" that