Nilight 90013L Toggle Control Warranty Review

These switches are easy to install with a 13/16 inch hole (use a step drill) and two or three wires. If you have the built-in indicator, connect the ground (gold connector). If you don't need a display, leave it unplugged and just use it as a two-pole power switch. Low profile view of this switch.

Completely useless to me. Nominal 20A? Not a single chance. Mine smoked at 10 amps. Yes, and the LED is off, if it's on, press it and it goes out. A little back, but that doesn't break the deal. there was smoke I can't get them back as I almost destroyed half trying to get one that can really handle even 12A. C'mon Revane, since they're sold and shipped by you I figured you had at least a little quality control. worth $7? Maybe for a non-working movie prop, otherwise don't waste your money. :^(

Quality switches in every respect! 4 color options (Green, Orange, Blue and Red) Easy to install (only 3 pins to connect) Works correctly with current rating, I used mine for a 20 amp air compressor. The switch is easy to turn on, it's not tight or too loose. The indicators on the switch are bright but not blinding. I can't think of any downsides to these switches. I will be buying more after using these 12. I've included a video review below for more information.

They are great for the price. They have a pleasing look and a pleasant click when triggered. The LED light also works without having to fiddle with resistors, unlike some other switches. I soldered mine to what I did, but I fix appliances for a living. If you don't know how to solder or use a heavy duty iron, the plastic will melt and the switch will fail. It is best to use connectors with female spade terminals. I bought enough for a while but if I need more I would take them again.

I've used them in two DC powered flashlights where the original switch didn't work. The switches work fine although I didn't get a chance to connect the small LED inside the switch. I also run them on 4.5 and 6 volts for only a few hundred milliamps rather than the "supposed" 12 volt and multiple amp ratings advertised in cars. If I have a reason to use it in a car or truck I will upgrade (I ordered a set of 12 switches so I have ten left). I can confidently say that for low current DC…

Strong locking when switching. The hole size is small because the outer frame doesn't protrude too much. Probably easy with a 3/4" drill bit, but very tricky if you're making the hole with another tool. The switch will melt if you try to solder wires unless you are very good at controlling the heat while soldering. LEDs are too bright for use in a car if you cannot remove the LED from the driver's eyes at night. This is my greatest weakness. Look at the picture where I installed the switch with

A little tricky to drill a 13/16" hole and I know I saw another review that recommended a 3/4" use a hole saw and file a little. Regardless, I'm happy with my results. Don't rely on these switches to handle 20 amps, just use a 10 amp relay or more and you'll have nothing to complain about. These are switches you won't find a better price for, and the advertised 20 amp rating calls for skepticism. The ones I have work perfectly and look great. I used them in place of the stupidly expensive…

Great switches: The LEDs are bright enough but not obtrusive, the switch action is solid and fast, and the size is perfect for being tightly packed yet easy to use. If you plan on using quick connectors instead of soldering wires directly to the terminals, note that the terminals are .205" and not the "standard" .250" you often see. Make sure you have the right connections. Another place where .205" connectors are commonly used is the positive connector on car speakers. Another thing I want to…