🔊 Enhance Car Audio Performance with SoundBox Connected 4 Gauge Black Amplifier Amp Power/Ground Wire 25 Feet Superflex Cable 25' Review

This product may be useful to a certain extent, but when it comes to car stereo and many electronics, copper aluminum is more harmful than helpful. It melts at high heat and often corrodes.

I don't think it's true 4 gauge wire but it hasn't hurt me yet. I hope it will be up to standard once I start drawing more amps. The case is very flexible but still durable, which I really like compared to the usual.

The wire was cheap and melted in 6 days! Luckily nothing caught fire and now I have 22 feet of junk wire that I can't use and had to spend more dollars to get another wire! There is no point in buying anything else!

As advertised. It's actually too flexible for me, I would have liked a little more stiffness, but hey. It should be noted that the insulation is very thick. Thick insulation is only good for high voltage; With high current, this leads to faster heating of the wire. But it's always good to have one so you don't accidentally puncture the wire and blow up the car battery ;)

Seems ok, flexible, outer sleeve/plastic cover is really thick but soft. It's not pure copper, it's copper-coated CCA aluminum, so very light. If I had to run it through my firewall, I guess I'd have to reinforce that line somehow. But for normal use, for example from a distribution block to an amplifier, that should be enough. And it's a little smaller than the 4 gauge cable I used to buy at audio stores.

How could anyone give this cable 1 or 2 stars? Maybe you want a more rigid design? Maybe the thicker strands in the insulation give more resistance? Or do they need to add more resistance to the wire in general because the resistance in that wire is 0? And of course we need the resistor so we can heat the wire and melt the insulation. Please forgive my sarcasm, but seriously, some people just shouldn't be writing reviews for Revain. I just had to apologize. However, this wire is fine. As good…

The ground wire was always connected to a screw pressed against the metal at the back of the car. It's only recently that I've had trouble turning the amp on and off. I spoke to some people at Best Buy Install and they recommended that I connect the ground directly from my battery the same way you do the power wire and this should take any guesswork out of whether the ground is good or not , remove. I didn't know until I spoke to them. It just makes sense. If you're going to run on battery, why