Review on Dorman 520-925 Front Driver Side 🔧 Lower Control Arm for Acura / Honda Models by Christopher Pfaffe

UPDATE 11/09/16: ------------ After 9200 miles on them I went to Sears to have luggage racks made and the mechanic said, that my sockets crack. They wanted $178 for LCA + $250 for labor. I said never mind and got another pair of Dorman LCAs which I installed last weekend. After taking them off I checked for cracks and only saw one of the bushings with a small crack, nothing really. Anyway, now I have new racks, new LCA and after alignment everything is fine. Dorman and Revain took good care of me with a limited lifetime warranty so I'm happy with the result. I should have enough for many years. UPDATE 9/18/15: -------------------------- Have driven it over 650 miles since install and everything seems fine. The ride was great and the steering wheel didn't shake at all. I spoke to a local shop and they said they don't bother changing bushings now, they just change the lever, easier and easier unless the lever is too expensive to replace. I believe they save time then even if they use the book time to charge the customer. Original Review: ------- I'm glad I bought this lever control as it makes my car much easier to fix. The malleable bushing snapped on my 2001 Honda Civic so I decided to use my whole hand as I don't have anything to push into the bushings. These arms feel just as sturdy as the originals and the bushings look good. I'm assuming the bushings and lever are Dorman. I double checked that they were pressed in properly (check the arrow on the bushing) and they were. Installation was easy as you have tons of videos on how to do it, here is what I did: 0) measure the distance between the center of the axle nut and the upper wheel housing with a tape measure 1) jack up the car 2) remove the Wheels (I used a percussion gun) 3) Move the stabilizer bar end link out of the way (5mm allen wrench + 14mm wrench) 4) Remove the castle nut from the ball joint (17mm) after removing the cotter pin 5) Remove the ball joint with a ball joint puller 6) Remove the screws (19mm) from 7) Remove the control arm by pushing it down 8) Install the front hub with the screw first, tighten it finger tight, but apply a small amount of Loctite Threadlocker Blue to threads first 9) Install the rear hub by pressing the lever and hand tightening the bolt after applying a small amount of Loctite Threadlocker Blue to the threads n have 10) Position the ball joint in your hand and hand tighten the castle nut 11) Use a jack to load your Su by pushing the ball joint up to the distance measured in part 0 (mine was about 15 inches) 12) Tighten the two 19mm bolts (61 lb-ft) 13) Depressurize the ball joint and remove the jack 14) Tighten the locknut (43-51 lb/ft) ft) and install a new cotter pin. Install and tighten stabilizer end link (23lb/ft)15)Insert wheel and hubcap if equipped16)Install jam nuts17)Repeat for other side18)Lower vehicle19)Tighten jam nuts to 80lb/ft20) Leveling! It took me 2 hours and 30 minutes for both sides. I only used the impact gun to loosen the lug nuts. The rest can be done with a spanner and torque wrench (you may also need an extension cord). All in all, once leveled out, the ride is smooth and I should be good for a couple of years. Enjoy!