It is a tragedy that a tool comes out of the factory almost unusable, but with a little tweaking it can be turned into a fully functional tool. Factory tools should not require you to retool them before they are functional. It will probably work if you do everything hard enough, but some parts will self-destruct with each use, which is a tragedy. Watch my video and I'll show you exactly how to switch tools and get it working perfectly. I thought I could sign the photos but can't find how so I'll describe the photos.1. bulging bladder; too high when using a factory designed depth gauge.2. Cross-section of a bulging bubble.3. not smooth clamping surface of the wing nut4. Saw off the smoother pressure surface of the knurled nut.5. Cross-section of MY own torch compared to the factory torch.6. my nicopp flare compared to my oem steel line7 flare. my nicopp flare compared to factory flare on OEM steel pipe (compressed after installation)8. Cross section of deflected bladder with arrows showing: red arrows = internal fluid pressure blue arrows = seal seat pressure against the outside of the flare bladder green arrows = flare nut force (note how the internal fluid pressure is actually pushing harder on the sealing surface, which is what makes "bubble expansion" an ideal expansion for high pressure applications like brake lines. All other internal pressure expansions will push the gasket apart, not compress.)9. video10. Photo of my modified blow mold box; An unused hole I cut out large enough to show to fit in my mini pipe cutter 11. Photo of the first "live" rocket to be installed in my car.
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