Okay, I'll be careful. These are really strong link ends. After unpacking this kit, I noticed that there are no polyurethane gaskets in the box. I went ahead and installed on the driver's side to see how it looks. They are 1/2 inch longer than factory links. With the block in place, minus the spacer, the bottom end is about 3/8" out. That means the top is sloping in. In the photo of the tester, I can see the unit is sloping up as well .Probably no damage no foul.They snap on and off with ease.The replaceable ends look like toothpicks in comparison.I've just driven my Wrangler 27,000 miles and had the factory blocks replaced due to a fault and the bearing set fell into something more than 2 years out. If you take your Jeep seriously off-road then you need them. Standard end links can't handle extreme movement so the Rubicon uses electronic clearance. I received their kit without the polyurethane seals. So I have a replacement. I noticed a factory defect on the stabilizer bar when I installed it, looking straight up from the bottom I noticed that the passenger side where d The tie rod is bent towards the frame. This means that the ends of the anti-roll bar mounts were not parallel to the frame. This was not caused by road damage. This explains why I created two links from the same page. The good news is that these adjustable links can easily be rotated square to the stem and still remain square to the mounting plate on the axle. So now I have links that I can remove to make our jeep fully articulated and thus save the pivot link failures from this extreme pressure. Yesterday I used this setting for the first time. They came off easily. When we got to a fairly flat spot before hitting the paved road, I banked on the driver's side, no problem. Then I tried to put them on the passenger side, it didn't work. My passenger got out, the bar popped out and it was easy to install. So the key is to keep it level, the passenger's weight will drop it. I found some small clips from a blinds kit. It has a tongue with a hole. This tab is bent about 3/16" from the remaining 2" of this bracket. It has a slot. So I drilled a 1/4 inch hole in the coil spring tower and screwed the strut to the tower. Two small elastic cords used to keep stabilizer level when detaching. Worked great.
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