Review on 🔊 Pyle 2-Channel Marine Amplifier Receiver: Waterproof and Weatherproof Subwoofer for Boat Stereo Speaker & Watercraft - 400 Watt Power with Wired RCA, AUX, and MP3 Audio Input Cable by Jimmy Jefferson

This is an amazing mini amp that fits in the palm of my hand. The amplifier has 2 sets of speaker output cables, each labeled R or L and polarity, and each of these 4 cables has a waterproof quick disconnect connector in the middle. It has 3 input wires: red (constant current), blue (remote activation signal) and black (ground). When the blue wire receives a 12V signal, it tells the amp to turn on. It also has two RCA input jacks that accept either low level (preamp) inputs or, by setting an internal push switch, will accept high level speaker inputs. There is a second internal pushbutton switch for changing input polarity and internal gain control. All of these internals can be covered with a plastic cover that makes the amp waterproof. There's also a volume control cable with a 3.5-inch jack on the end that you can optionally connect the included volume control to with a 4-foot cable. to 3ft Cable 3.5" Male to 3.5" 3ft Cable Waterproof Cell Phone or iPod Case with 3.5" Jack Outside and 3.5" Socket inside with adjustable blue neck. -Cable. All plugs (except the pouch) are fitted with waterproof plugs so they can be sealed when nothing is plugged in. My goal was to use an amp to drive a pair of JBL 3.5" speakers, each rated at 25W RMS, in the car. I used them previously from my factory amp which shared them on the same channel as my door speakers and I recently upgraded it to a secondary amp at 4x100 RMS powering the JBL door and rear speakers so I wanted to a small separate amplifier just to power the small speakers in the front. I currently have a couple of speakers hooked up directly to the head unit, but I wanted to be able to match the volume to my other amps, and more importantly, I didn't want my head unit to overheat by pushing 30+ RMS on each channel. JBL car dashboard speakers with 2 ohms impedance and 25 watts RMS each. First I turned the volume all the way down and the gain all the way down, and I gradually turned the gain all the way up, but the sound wasn't as loud as I expected. Then I noticed that the volume on my iPhone was only half, so the speakers got louder than I'd ever heard in my car when I cranked them to the max. The sound filled the house and was very clear, except for a slight hum that I could only hear when there was a quiet pause in the music. I left it on at full power for several hours and the amp only got a little warm. I suspected the hum was related to the power supply I was using, so I hooked it up to a car battery and the hum went away. And there was no engine noise, so everything looked great. The next step was to connect it to my head unit's speaker outputs and press the input toggle switch to "speaker input mode". Unfortunately, there was no sound at all in this mode. I verified that my RCA speaker patch cord was working by touching the RCA end to one of the speakers and there was indeed sound so it was clear the problem was in the amp's high input mode. Since this is a 400w amp I thought it was just marketing hype when I bought it. I believe its RMS output is around 35-40 watts per channel, which is good for small speakers, but it won't be enough to drive the subwoofer in any way. I read that some people had to use a Peripheral/PAC LD10 line driver amp to boost the low level input going into the amp to get a louder output. I noticed two other problems. The manual says the internal controls have an LED that should light up when the amp is on, but I didn't see one on my amp. I also noticed that the potentiometer (rotary control) on the volume control was not well matched to the device, since at maximum gain the volume control was very sensitive and only responded to the first quarter turn, but at maximum. Besides that. I was thinking about getting a low level speaker level adapter to solve the speaker input problem e.g. B. an additional adapter for the two-channel adjustable amplifier of the SCOSCHE LOC2SL car radio in black, which also contains its own volume remote control. which would solve both problems but this product should only be needed in cases where you don't want to remove the main unit when adding an amp and I really didn't want to add an extra component to the system just to get around the downside so chic I'm returning the amp and sending a replacement which hopefully doesn't have the same problem. When I run into the same problem, I can upgrade to a slightly larger and more powerful DS18 CANDY-MICRO2 320W 2x80W RMS 2-channel full-range car/motorcycle/quad mic, but it lacks an external volume control. Update: Two days later I received an upgraded replacement unit from Revain with working high-end speaker inputs. I've found that when using high level inputs the audio is a bit distorted when I turn up the volume on the car stereo (which isn't the case in low level input mode), but I'm not sure if this is the case is the case. caused by Pyle's built-in line-out converter (LOC) or by the head unit's internal gain circuitry. I'm guessing it's later, so I ordered an RCA piggyback audio cable kit, 2 RCA male to 2 RCA male + RCA piggyback female, 6ft, which I used to connect the two input channels from my headunit with both can share. Amplifier and my larger Rockford/Fosgate amp driving the door speakers. I noticed that the new volume knob is smoother than the previous one, but it hits its maximum volume when turned halfway. As for the other minor issue with the LED lighting not lighting up on the first Pyle Hydra amp I ordered, the new replacement also doesn't have a power LED so that feature appears to have been removed. Overall I'm happy with my purchase so far. It seems well designed but Pyle needs better quality control and testing before sending it to Revain as I've seen other people have to send their first units back for exchange as well.