My application is a bit unusual in that I am fitting the unit into a custom made petrol tank and I had to cut an access hole and pilot drill the holes myself - loosening the mounting screws. Before I started using the device I did a test to see if it would work with a Stuart Warner fuel gauge in a 1967 Jeep that I am restoring. I connected the positive wire from the gauge to the center pin on the transmitter and clamped the negative (ground) wire to the steel washer. I turned on the ignition to turn on all the sensors and watched the SW fuel gauge needle while manually moving the float lever through its entire range of motion from lowest to highest - the needle accurately tracked the position of the lever. For example, if the arm was directly in the horizontal position, the measuring needle would be directly in the middle of the vertical. I made a double mounting base out of two squares of 20 gauge sheet steel and drilled holes for the screws. Note that most of these transmitter mounting screw holes are NOT evenly spaced; This is by design so there is only one correct mounting position if you are simply replacing a failed unit in an existing tank. This will keep the float arm from moving and hitting the inside of the tank midway as it rotates. The included rubber gasket is thick and flexible so should provide a good seal without the use of sealant. The screws are good quality and have a hex head, which is better if you have to put some effort into getting them to cut fresh threads like I did. The instructions were very detailed and included a diagram showing how to adjust the length of the float arm and main vertical mounting shaft for tanks 5" to 22.5" deep. There is also a description of how to deal with the situation when the alignment of the fuel tank mounting screw holes does not match the transmitter. I have not used the tank yet, so I cannot guarantee its performance under tank conditions and over time.
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