I have these rivet pliers to knock out 1/4" stainless steel rivets to fix the rusty bottom of my 1988 E150 van (you can look at that picture I've attached) by riveting a piece of 18 gauge galvanized steel. I wanted to use 1/4" stainless steel for its strength (greater than steel, SS has a tensile strength of 2100 pounds versus 1500 pounds for steel) and lack of rust, but stainless steel rivets are the hardest to crack. The cheapest tool I have found to knock out 1/4" stainless steel rivets. I've used it on about 50 1/4" stainless steel rivets. There are a few tricks to using it: 1. If it doesn't pop on the first press, just spread it out a bit on the second press as it will pop out much easier 2. When you rivet the bottom with it like I do and you push lightly to grab the rivet and then put it in the hole when you then fully release the rivet the mandrel may fall out Reason is when laying floors care must be taken to ensure the rivet does not catch in the handle at all and once it enters the handle keep squeezing the rivet to set it and pushing the rivet out. Also, for those of you planning to use it, there's another fold on 1/4" rivets. You usually need F-size drill bits, not 1/4" drill bits like you might expect. F-size drill bits (.257") are much more difficult to find than 1/4" (.250") F-size drill bits is best if you wiggle the 1/4" bit up and down a bit and move it from side to side. You can use the 1/4 inch bit as it enlarges the hole a bit to get the rivet in.
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