Review on 🔧 High Quality Carburetor for Polaris Magnum 425 (1995-1998) and Ranger 500/Sportsman 500 ATV Quad Carb by Issac Smart

I bought this carburetor because the original carburetor requires some fairly expensive parts. New parts that make the old one work properly cost about $250. So I decided to try one of these generic ones. Especially since there are so many decent reviews in general. My personal experience with this carburetor is not very good. First, I'm an autodiagnostician. I did general automotive training and then specialized in diagnostics and performance. I've been a diagnostic technician for a local Chrysler/Jeep dealer for 28 years. While my initial inspection of the carburetor went well as shipped, there were three internal problems with it. None of the issues were related to fit or external imperfections. After installing and running the machine, I immediately noticed a serious rich condition at idle. The quad would not idle at all, had terrible slip and was so rich my eyes burned from the smoke. So I checked the mixture setting and found it was 3 and 3/4 turns. A typical adjustment for most carburetors is about 1 turn + - half a turn. So I turned the mixture screw in and eventually turned it all the way down and the quad was still bouncing around and stinging my eyes. At this point the engine was supposed to stall with the mixture screw fully out, but it didn't. It was still too rich. I already checked the choke setting when I installed the carburetor by removing the top of the carburetor to visually inspect the choke piston in the bore as per its factory setting in the service manual. So I suspected something was wrong with the float/needle assembly. I removed the carburetor from the car and removed the float bowl. My inspection of the float and needle was fine, except that the float was set too low, which could result in lean rather than rich. So I knew something else was wrong. I left the float in the low position for now as I didn't yet know what the main problem was. I removed the main jet needle and inspected it for deformation and how its setting was adjusted. The jet needle has also been set to full lean (the top mark at which the jet needle is set to its lowest position). Those two settings set at full lean made me suspect the carburetor had a serious fault that couldn't be fixed. Because with those two base settings set to full power, the quad shouldn't flinch and barely be idling, but should still be picking up revs and appearing to be running well at almost WOT (full throttle). Bad condition will not hold steam well and work in WOT. He'll just choke a lot. The next step I had to check was removing the nozzle assembly. So look for problems with the needle jet (not the needle jet, they ate different parts. The needle jet is the tube that the needle jet slides in and out of depending on the throttle). Opening). What I found annoyed me as there was no gasket in the jet block assembly. See attached picture. The bottom groove (pictured right) is missing the bottom o-ring that sits in the float bowl and seals the jet assembly, forcing fuel to rise through the main jet instead of bypassing it. Because of this, he ran too rich, even though the other two shots were completely lean. Looks like they intentionally set them to full tilt to compensate for the missing injector block gasket. The problem is that these seals cannot be purchased separately from your Polaris dealer. You have to buy the entire inkjet assembly for $150. I took the carburetor to a few local auto parts stores and found a matching o-ring. But I am concerned that the o-ring will not last long as these seals sit in the fuel as it is not a dedicated fuel o-ring. When I got home and reinstalled the carburetor, I didn't have a wealthy fortune. He didn't work at all because he was very thin. The only way to get it working now is to spray carb cleaner into the throttle hole and when the spray is removed it stalls. So I turned the mixture screw 3 and 3/4 turns where it originally was and the quad just idled. Although the idle was smooth, the engine didn't rev at all. Just freeze and die. So I removed the top part of the carburetor to adjust the jet needle to full throttle. After this adjustment, the quad would idle very well (without burning your eyes with overly saturated fumes) and rev to about half throttle. But anything close to WOT just choked the engine. I had to remove the carburetor again so I could adjust the float to the correct height as per the factory manual. Once this setting was properly adjusted, the quad started to idle too rich, but also revved up and ran at WOT. But the idler was now a little rich. So I adjusted the mixture screw 1 1/4 turns and removed the top of the carburetor again so I could change the needle setting to medium or medium and now it starts fine both hot and cold. The engine idles great without burning your eyes with exhaust fumes, it revs up and runs WOT like a champ. After all, this seller's problems and their poorly/improperly assembled product was something most people wouldn't be able to do. I'm afraid the gasket I had to buy from my local parts store won't last long and I have to periodically remove the nozzle assembly to replace this gasket on a regular basis. 1) I gave the carburetor and the seller a 1 for the overall rating because most people would never get this carburetor to work. 2) I gave this carburetor and the seller 2 for the total cost. This is because after fixing the problems with it, I was able to get a good working carburetor, at least for the time being. A new one from the dealer costs more than $700, and just parts to repair the old one cost at least $250. I bought this carburetor for $50. But not without a lot of training and experience to make it work well. 3) I gave this carburetor a 3 for easy install because it fits right in. No settings are missing, some of the conventional carburetors do not have all the settings available. But I have to uninstall and reinstall it multiple times to diagnose and fix errors. Summary: Would I recommend this carburetor to someone else. I think it's luck as many others have never had problems. Some had problems and said they ended up using a new universal carburetor to fix their old one. I would say so. If you have experience and can diagnose problems yourself, be sure to give it a try. You can spend a lot of time, but if it's for yourself, you can save a lot of money. If you are an amateur and just trying to do it in a simple way. Well, "Are you lucky?" Remember, take a look at the picture I've attached. In this small groove on the right side in the center of the black nozzle assembly you can see that there is no o-ring as it was missing. If this is not the case, he becomes too rich.