Review on Super Bright LUYED LED Bulbs with Projector: 2 X 900 Lumens, 78-EX Chipsets for Turn Signal, Amber - 3056, 3156, 3057, 3157 by Casey Yuh

bulbs work great but have a hyper flash problem that is quite common when going from factory bulbs to LED bulbs. Most new cars have the ability to 'test' the bulbs, giving you warnings in the dashboard information bar if there is a problem. Those lamp sensors are obviously looking for resistance at some level and if there isn't, they'll give you an error code. LED (Light Emitting Diode) bulbs only allow current to flow in one direction (like a check valve in a water system) so sometimes you have to flip them to get light - most are polarity sensitive. On my 14 Ram, each bulb is essentially on its own circuit - they don't run in parallel like on older cars - this is how the computer in your car "sees" each bulb. There are two ways to solve this problem: first, replace the turn signal (even the dealer doesn't know where mine is) with an LED compatible one, or install a 50W 6 ohm resistor in each lamp. I chose the resistance route. The resistor must be connected directly to a METAL GROUND from the wire that makes the light blink. This will make your computer sensor think the lightbulb is good, so it will no longer show an error code. I bought mine here at Revain for less than $7: (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UNG3EXQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). an inexpensive meter (about $10 almost everywhere) that measures DC voltage. Remove the bulb from the socket, turn on the key and turn on the hazard lights. Press the black test lead firmly against a clean metal surface of the vehicle and begin touching each pin in the connector SEPARATELY. You're looking for the pin that toggles your meter's voltage on and off. Determine which wire connects this pin and install a resistor from that wire to your vehicle's METAL ground. It's not rocket science and even a super newbie can do it. There are also lamps with a STANDARD base and lamps with a CK base. I will try to explain how you can tell the difference in your car. You need an inexpensive meter that will check for continuity and can be found almost anywhere for around $10. You must use the OHMS (ohms) setting. REMOVE THE LIGHT BULB from the socket to be checked and, if possible, disconnect the socket from the supply cable. Now imagine a capital H. If you have continuity between two high or low points THROUGH H, you have a STANDARD connection. If you have continuity along the H "lines", you have a CK jack. Many counters have a sound for this, but if you have NO sound, look for all zeros on the screen, which will show you continuity. If you have NO continuity, you will not hear a beep (if your meter allows it) or you will see a very large number on the screen (10K, 100K, 1M, infinity, etc.). It's pretty easy even for a complete beginner. There is one more variable related to your lighting: CANBUS (Controller Network Bus). Most European cars and many new domestic cars are beginning to use CANBUS. The only way to know for sure is to check with your car dealer or manufacturer. Unfortunately I cannot help you identify the bulbs if your vehicle has CANBUS. UPDATE 6/10: Despite my best efforts, including adding resistors (which were fine), I haven't been able to solve my issue with these partially flashing lights. like lightning and just doesn't burn in the end. My 2014 frame has a number of electronic modules that are interconnected and, as far as turn signals go (at least), will NOT allow those wonderful bulbs to work properly. The dealer told me that I do NOT have CANBUS in my truck, but we are also talking about a dealer who cannot tell me where the turn signals are. I'll keep looking for a solution to using those AWESOME lightbulbs and will update if/if I find out. For those with a truck like mine, the only bulbs you can replace (plug and play) are the third brake light, the cargo lights, and the reverse lights. If anyone in Revane has a solution I'd love to hear from you.