Review on 🔧 Car Door OEM Cable Fix Part - Complete Repair Kit for F-Series, E-Series, Ranger, Expedition, Excursion, and Navigator - 6 Standard Ends and 2 Locking Cam Included by Stephen Doyle

. Although the description didn't say it was my truck, I searched the internet and found that it is indeed what I was looking for to solve my problem. Weak plastic ends for the two cables (4 total for both doors) that control the opening of the top and bottom door latches will snap and break causing the latches to not open properly. If you just broke just one end of the door wire, I VERY VERY VERY RECOMMEND that you do both doors (all 4 wires) now and save yourself the headache and pain later by having another door that you can't just open . Although I would consider this a failure. be a safety issue and SHOULD be recalled by the NHTSA even with SO many vehicles involved! I mean you CANNOT open the doors if the flimsy plastic ends break and eventually they will. At this point, no one in the back seat can quickly and easily get out of the car as they should. This is CLEARLY a design flaw using such a flimsy, low quality component to hold the cables in place and automakers should look elsewhere to save pennies on the car build. But you know, save that nickel, what would it cost you later, huh? Bean counters and lawyers.yeesh!Installation is a PITA if your wires are already busted and you can't open the doors. This is not the fault of the product or the seller. It's just a fact. A 3-star installation reflects the work itself and does not reflect negatively on the product or the seller. He also asked about "transparency" in the review, and since I have no idea WHAT that means, I didn't answer that. Again, this does not affect the product or the seller. At least none of them should. If your door(s) are still open because you replace faulty items before they break - SMART OF YOU! I WOULD LIKE TO HAVE! Then it's not so bad. Open the door(s) and proceed to step 9 after removing the 6 Phillips head screws from the door panel. Note that once you have all of this sorted out, if ANY side of your cable ends (4 ends total) are broken, you will ALSO need to order a replacement cable for each broken cable. You really can't fix a broken end of a cable, but that's almost always the case. Cheap plastic tips break about 98% of the time. If you open the doors by pulling the shit out hard, you can just rip off the end of the cord. This review does not cover cable replacement, only cable end replacement. Since the 2006 Dodge Dakota door panel needs to be open to remove it, you need to play the game. There are some good videos on the internet if you don't want to read everything. 1) Slide driver's seat (and/or front passenger's seat) all the way forward. Squeeze the lever to recline the seat forward so you have as much room to work as possible. 2) Remove the 2 screws securing the seat belt to the roof. You do NOT need to remove the ceiling to do this. You REALLY need a T45 (I recommend one that attaches to a 1/2 socket wrench with at least a 6" extension to give you some breaking power - I use a hook that comes with my socket wrench for this initial loosening was added)) .3) Remove 4 of the 6 Phillips head screws - 2 at the top (one was hidden by the seat belt) and 2 at the center 4) CAREFULLY pull the plastic trim from the top and center clips. Part forward so you can see the hole you will be reaching into. to prevent accidental opening). You'll hear a click and the door will move outward a little when you reach the right door. can pop out and only open 1/2. This step assumes the end of the cable is good and still in the locking mechanism. I have to manually unlock the top locking mechanism, and sorry I'm not sure how it's done as I didn't have to. 7) Keep pressure on the door (push out), repeat 5 and 6, the door will open. 8) At this point, loosen the last 2 Phillips head screws on the underside of the fairing and set aside for later. At this point you can check any snap clips on the skin to reattach any loose ones, or pull the actual clip out the door and reattach them to the skin if you need to reattach them later. That. Chances are all 4 ends of your cable are broken by now and some may already be physically disconnected from the attachment point due to the broken plastic end. The cables are still connected, but they don't work because they can slip too much. 9) On the TOP DOOR Latch (on both sides) mark around the 2 studs (with a felt tip pen) to aid in re-seating. EXACTLY where they reconfigured when they were reattached. Then remove them with a 10 or 12mm socket. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO DETACH THE ROPE FROM THE CLOSURE! If the cable itself isn't broken and the latch still moves when you pull it, leave it alone. 10) You will need an exacto knife (or utility knife) to cut off the hard plastic cover and tail. Do not try to cut the cable jacket, just run the knife edge up, starting just below the bottom of the plug's dome and cutting all the way up and through the plastic knurl on the end. This is not difficult if the knife is very sharp. Most if it's probably gone already, you just need to take the rest off. Even if you cut off some of the cable's plastic coating, not much. But you should get anything that doesn't match the width of the cable and jacket so you can attach a spare metal end later. on it (one side is square). If you bought a set of 8, only 2 of the remaining 6 will be identical. Think of it like a cover. Slide the metal replacement over the cable and jacket and push/pull down the cable until the top of the replacement end sits on top of the top of the plastic jacket covering the cable. 12) On the top locking mechanism you may need to twist/twist the cable to insert the cam lock into the hole and one inside allows the cam to be rotated at least 90 degrees to ensure it doesn't fall out when reinstalled. Once the replacement end cam is inserted and held in place by the latch, allow the whole thing to dangle freely. 13) You will need to remove 2 T25 screws from the door handle. DO NOT DISCONNECT CONNECTED WIRES from door handle mechanism. Please note that there are two plastic clips on the door handle that attach the cable to the door handle. Now just let them hang freely together. 14) On the bottom locking mechanism you need a light to help you see. You have to pull the end of the cable out of the lever holding it. Chances are the plastic holder is already broken which makes this easier, but if not you'll have to pull out the plastic cable holder and then you can pull the cable up and slide it out of the locking lever yourself. quite easy. So for the bottom latch you REALLY want to remove the cable from the latch mechanism without removing the latch at all. Difference to the upper latches. 15) Now that all 4 ends of the cable are loose and easy to move if needed, cut each of the 3 remaining plastic ends off the cable(s) again without cutting the cable or jacket. (if you can help him). Just make sure the plastic end and knurling are removed from the cable. Once you cut the ends that go into the doorknob mechanism, it's time to loosen the two clips (nose-nose pliers to pinch the ends together and slide the retaining clip outwards so the entire end of the cable falls down to allow it to is more visible and cut off old scraps of plastic and most likely wash out the dirt rattling inside. This doesn't actually require disconnecting the cable from the door handle mechanism. A good sharp office knife or exacto knife will do. / Pull down to seat correctly on the cable. Repeat Do this for the remaining 3 ends on the door 17) On the bottom latch mechanism, feed the end of the cable back into the bottom latch arm. 18) You will likely need a pair of deadlocks or locking pliers to push and snap the round slot on the metal replacement end back into the retainer on the locking mechanism. You will hear/see/feel it when it clicks into place. This is the key. You MUST have this slot in the holder CLOSED or you are wasting your time. Once attached, the bottom latch cable end is complete. 19) Making sure the two door handle mechanism clips are back in place and gripping the two new metal ends properly, replace the door handle in the door and screw into place. two T25 screws hold it in place. 20) Using the two screws you removed from the top latch and making sure the cam lock is still in place while holding the cable in the latch mechanism, slide the latch back into the door and screw the screws lightly into the upper door latch. Once they're holding it in place easily, move the latch until the two screws line up with the marks on the latch cover you made earlier and once they're in place, fully tighten both screws. 21) At this point you should have no trouble closing. and opening the door. Try a few times before you're done. If you need to adjust the top mechanism to ensure it releases, opens, closes and latches properly, now is the time. 22) After making sure all clips are in place and ready to be reinstalled, gently push the latch and snap into place. all fasteners present. Then replace the 6 Phillips screws in the panel. The middle 2 screws are slightly larger than the top 4 bottom screws - FYI. Repeat these steps for the other side. Much luck. Done right, you'll never have to do it again unless the cable itself breaks.