Review on 🔧 Keller Dovetail System 135-1500: The Ultimate Journeyman Dovetail Jig by Fred Meeks

I attended a dovetail workshop at SF TechShop and wanted an easier way to make them at home. I looked at PeachTree's similar DoveTail system before moving on to the original basement. I like the 1/4" ball bearing bits for the tail and shaft. This means I can use any router: manual, dive, table and not bother with the adapter. Plates used in other DoveTail systems. I mistakenly assumed the comb is metal it's some sort of laminate it's probably better if you're an idiot and forget to turn off the router before pulling the router out of the comb (the only time a little can tear into the comb). I made pin (V-shaped) and dove (U-shaped) marks on the jig so I didn't screw it up as they use the same 5/8" guide bearing ( I would design straight but with a larger bearing, which would not fit on the side of the bone to avoid mistakes.) You will need to make your own 2.25" x 3.5" x 18" block of wood. For the price it should have been included! I think I'll buy a 4x4 and cut it with a table saw. For best results, be sure to use a good quality rectangular block. married the block. Be sure to align the line drawn on the template with the square edge of the block. The block is designed to hold the stencil and you actually insert your cutting tools into the block to prevent the original material from breaking. When not in use. Otherwise they will be disconnected when you need it. 2" and you have to overshoot the board 1/16" to expose the 3/4" bit. The book says use dovetail boards that are 1/8" to 3/4" thick vise and then attach the comb to the board and then the router on top.For bench routers the board sticks straight up in the air (hope you have short boards) Keller and Peachtree sell clamp systems for this comb which I might check out You will cut the dovetails first, making sure the cuts are centered as you cannot get them too close to the edge.After cutting the dovetails place the board mark on the board where you will insert the same pins embed, use a knife to trace the lines that the dovetail will go along, you will be cutting material between them so the pins are the only thing left to insert the dovetail, go too slow and you will v burn. I needed a few workouts but it was just enough. Use a hammer to check that the fit is correct and if you are too lazy to open the board up again to apply wood glue and repeat the hammering step you can simply apply glue to the open joint to seal the Put glue wick in place. It was a lot more expensive than a typical finger joint setup, but I'm proud to have great American documentation (both comb and bits) and to be backed by a company that seems to care!