Review on Light Of Mine Oil Lamp Replacement Burner - Brass Plated #2 Burner Kit with Reduction Ring & Wick - Ideal for Antique Hurricane Lamps (1) by Dave Branch

It's made the same as my antique except: 1) it's brass plated 2) the "shoulders" fold over making it easier to place thin glass balls on it 3) The burner hole is not designed well enough to produce a nice flame like my antique. 4) It doesn't screw to the base perfectly, but that's acceptable to me. killer - point 3). My photos show that the flame hole isn't that big, and what you can't see is that the metal channel that holds the wick inside (which blocks how deep the flame can go) is about 2mm deeper in ancient times is. In this design, it is parallel to the bottom of the flame hole, so the flame can't start that deep, and the overall flame doesn't have a nice square and is 1/2 smaller than the antique. The old flame can grow about 5 times larger even without smoke, and this flame will die out on its own if you try to increase it. But with a 5-fold increase in flame in an antique, it drops again by about 2-fold after about 30 seconds because the wick burns through with a strong flame. But if you adjust and play with the flame you can really see the accuracy of the old design, how it always keeps the flame square even when the wick isn't. I tried bending the metal hole in this version to get a similar result but couldn't. I think the main problem is that the channel holding the wick goes too high. If you want a bright flame, do not use paraffin oil. Use any "lamp oil" that does NOT say "paraffin" on it and your flame will be 2x brighter. Real lamp oil is usually very pure K-1 kerosene oil, which has a lower viscosity than what you might see in a bottle and therefore burns more easily at 142F than 200F for paraffin. Paraffin-free ones burn lighter, brighter, and MUCH cleaner with less odor, but they're easier to ignite.