Review on 💪 Monroe 58640 Load Adjusting Shock Absorber (Pack of 2): Enhanced Performance for Heavy Loads by Savoeun Ramirez

My 2006 Dodge 1500 was very stiff in the rear. When I changed the pads and rotors, I also replaced the shock absorbers with them. People said that they lifted trucks there, the miner stayed at the same height. Now it drives very quietly, I no longer feel every bump like I used to. The shocks I removed are a bit longer than these, since I have a lifter I honestly don't even consider it a rear lifter, it actually only raises the front. Looks like I still have storage blocks. Anyway I was worried they would be too short but after putting them on and having a good test ride. The truck drives well. People complained about rattling when going through bumps due to the coil on the shock. Mine are very quiet, I can't hear the coil vibration on either the top or bottom mount. Installation was easy for me, if you have the right tools I'm sure it will be easy for you. To make it easier I had to lift the suspension off my hitch. It took the pressure off the old upheavals. And I just ripped off the top and bottom studs with my punch. I had to bend the bells on top to put the new ones in. But a little tip: mount them on top first, then slowly lower the truck if necessary to allow the bottom cleats to line up. Another quick tip: take a crescent wrench and fold back the bells at the top (requires very little bending). This will make installation much easier. I don't actually tow trailers and don't ride much, I just took them for the price. But we go hiking quite often and my wife loves to collect the whole house😋😋😋😋. I'll tell you about my first trip. Absolutely no noise from these beats. Haven't ridden anything yet but will post pics and update them when I do. The shock has a really big upstroke because I have lift blocks in the rear. I'm not sure if they are available because my brother-in-law has the exact same truck as mine and I installed the exact same shocks on his truck and found it didn't have lift blocks in the rear. And the shocks I removed from his truck are only 1/4 inch shorter. So when I installed the new shocks, I didn't actually have to lower the truck to line up the lugs. they were a perfect match. On my truck I had to lower it a good 2 or 3 inches before the cleats lined up on the underside. I noticed in some of the photos that a gentleman posted here. One of them looks like it has a bigger lift block than me and says its shocks work great. In another picture, another gentleman has no lifting blocks at all, like my brother-in-law. The reason I'm saying this is because I'm lifting my truck off the hitch. There's probably a half inch of upward movement from impact before my tires actually leave the ground. I'm not sure if that's enough, especially when hiking off-road and hitting big potholes or riding over rough terrain. I see what could possibly bottom out in spring. I'm considering removing my rear lift blocks to increase shock travel, although I'm not sure if that's necessary. UPDATE - MAY 18, 2019 - unfortunately my worries came true, these are big shocks, but I did a little measuring and researching what my truck's settings are. I have an extra 2" sheet along with 2" blocks so I have a total of 4" of buoyancy. The shocks won't work if you have 4 inches of lift. There is absolutely no upward movement of the shock, especially when you hit bumps or dips in the road and feel the shock hit (on the upstroke, not on the bottom). I will remove them and they will be replaced with Skyjacker shock absorbers. . These are big shocks. But unfortunately I can only use them when I get my lifting blocks out, and I don't for a couple of reasons I won't go into. But FYI if you have a 4 inch lift they won't work. Even a 3 inch lift will push it. UPDATE - May 24th, 2019 - These shocks are no longer on my truck, I now have Skyjacker shocks. As I said in my comment above. These are amazing shock absorbers but they have limitations depending on the type of lift your truck has.