Pros: It tests voltage (AC and DC), resistance (ohms), continuity, temperature, has a diode test and autoranging. Pretty good looking, reasonably well built, has a rubberized protective cover, test leads are surprisingly decent (encased in nominal values marked on the wire which is unusual for cheap wires), the thermometer wire looked decent too. Cons: Autorange is a bit slow. , the rubber case adds bulk and it doesn't fit in my toolbox nearly as easily as my old GB GDT-200A without the rubber case. The continuity test was very cumbersome and very slow. Also note that this meter does NOT measure current (not even just DC Amps). Looking at GB's testers catalog none of the current range of multimeters will fit - they have reduced their range of digital models to 3 and also reduced the features. That was a point I missed since both of my old GB meters measure DC Amps. Given that the three main functions of a multimeter are voltage, current, and resistance, I believe the GDT-3200 looks more like a multifunctional voltmeter than a true multimeter. This is a serious problem for some home improvement apps. This is definitely a household/everyday item. However, it probably fills that niche pretty well if you don't need to measure DC. I am very happy with the quality and durability of other GB products and like them as a company. I would rate this a 7 out of 10 for its price range, but there is no 3.5 option. It's a bit pricey for its feature set. I ended up sending it back because I wanted a more versatile multimeter - my fault for not paying enough attention to the specs before buying. I will probably take the Extech MN26T because a compact meter is important to me. Looking back, and after further research, here are some things to look for in a multimeter when you're ready to read. Key Features: * Voltage - should measure AC and DC from millivolts to 500 or 600 volts. * Current (amps) - the best ones measure both AC and DC, the cheaper ones only measure DC. The best measure microamps, milliamps, and amps. The 10 amp range should be a fuse in addition to the microamp and milliamp range. (Current tests don't typically exceed 10 amps in a regular multimeter/no-clamp multimeter. Cheaper meters often don't protect the 10 amp terminal.) * Resistance - 200 ohms - 20 megohms * Continuity test (should be audible). , crisp with quick response when the wires hit. Continuity testing is a feature that is often missing from inexpensive meters. This should be taken into account when distinguishing.) * Diode measurement (Get the highest possible voltage range, eg 4 volts. Note): A meter using 2 AA or AAA batteries obviously will not run as high as normal. Just know your trade-offs) Additional features: * Temperature * Auto range (vs manual selection). If autoranging, how fast does it toggle and does it have a manual range override mode? (Auto or manual range is a matter of personal preference. Manual gauges are cheaper and there's nothing wrong with them - you just have to turn the dial to the position when you turn them on to use them.) * Auto power off * Data hold / Max Hold * The best meters have 4 terminals - separate volts and ohms vs amps. This is a security feature (protecting you from yourself), but it's usually only found on more expensive models. Other things to look out for: * Rated at least CAT II * Has recognized safety certification - CE, cETLus, UL * Higher quality banana Sensors have finger protection, are fully sleeved and have the cable rating printed on the cable. * Are there large numbers on the display that you can actually see? *Lighting is an optional feature that could be handy but probably isn't critical *Does it have a sturdy housing that will withstand an accidental drop from a counter onto a concrete floor *What size. It's easy to hold, fits in a toolbox when you need it.* Does it have a storage case.* Does it have a PC interface (do you really want it or need it?). . If you're looking for a cheap gauge you can find one for home use in the $10-$20 range (e.g. Mastech MAS830L or MAS838. I wouldn't buy the ultra-super cheap ones for safety and accuracy reasons). Better mid-range test tools cost $40 or $50 (e.g. Extech MN26T or EX330) and really good, professional test tools cost well over $100 and can be designed for a specific type of use (e.g. Fluke ). Hope this all helps.
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