Review on Enhanced FMK526CP Radio Dash Kit for 2009-2014 Ford F-150: 📻 Complete Set with Antenna Adapter and Harness, Compatible with All Trim Levels by Jason Wright

First of all, it worked because it did what it was supposed to do. The price wasn't bad, and it had everything together rather than taking apart the wiring harness, face, radio hardware, and antenna adapter piece by piece. The wiring harnesses and fixings for the radio were fine. The faceplate, well I had to spend a few bucks more and/or take a little longer to find a Metra or Scosche kit as I *always* got lucky with those. As another posted here in the comments, I had to trim the top hole (clean up the top and bottom to make it a little "higher") to get the alarm and traction control switches to fit properly, and even then they don't fit too well. The sides just wouldn't squeeze and snap together properly; I had to wedge "things" into the sides of the switch to push the tabs out so it would stay. The lower notch for the Ford extra entry (no longer needed) didn't fit either - it wasn't wide enough and it wasn't until I broke the damn OEM part that I realized the problem. There wasn't enough surface area to glue it on, so I had to use a self-tapping screw and two washers to hold it in place (my OCD wouldn't allow a gaping hole in the console). Luckily, the black tape over the washers and bolt head hides it from peripheral vision pretty well. Also note that Ford engineers don't like that we use ANY aftermarket, you need to find power to connect to the RED wire in the Ford wiring harness. I feel like Ford did it in the dumbest way just to make it easier for them. Maybe they thought I'd buy another $500 main unit from them instead of buying a $33 radio, $34 dash and $7 safety faucet and installing it myself. Anyway, I found power by running stranded 16 gauge copper wire from the radio hole to the passenger footwell where Ford placed the fuse box. You need to buy a fuse tap ($7 at Walmart or Autozone - they also have them at Revain but I don't need a 10 pack.) Drop it but you don't have to pick it up NOW Ford uses micro fuses and the fuse tap is "Mini-fuses" but that's OK - the mini-fuses fit in the micro-fuse slots BUT you can't reattach the inner fuse box cover after you're done unless you cut off the cover when you remove it , it's just not worth it - the outer cover still protects the fuse box. Click on fuse #38 - you will need TWO 10 amp mini fuses - one for what you removed and one to replace what you removed if you pulled the micro fuse (if you have a radio that draws more than 10 amps, you'll need to find a fuse that matches your head unit current). 38 is CT fuse ART/RUN. Route the safety valve so the red wire goes to the right (ie, toward the seat) for proper installation. If you want to do some research or measure the box to find fuses that feed from either RUN or ACC (accessory) do so, but remember your fuse tap needs to go to GO and the 38 does the job well done. If you are not using a 38 you will also need to measure the point of the fuse to determine which side is hot - the lead side of the fuse opposite the wire should be the 'hot' side. YouTube can tell you more. Of course you don't want to select a fuse in the box as it could be "always on" and drain your battery. With #38, the radio stays on after you turn off the truck for 10 minutes or until you open the door (whichever comes first).