Review on 🚗 Enhance Your Ride with Energy Suspension 3.4156G Body Mount Set by Lamar Vanderburg

Makes the ride a bit difficult. No more than expected. I changed both sides myself in 2 hours. The only tools needed were a jack, a piece of wood, an 18mm socket, a wrench and some silicon grease. Be careful when lifting the body against the front bumper. I don't want to lift more than necessary. *Change 03/12/19*Road vibration increased. Solid. Factory bushings were changed at 200k after a complete front/rear suspension replacement. All parts were original GM equipment except Cognito UCA, Kryptonite bars, PISK and hubs, RareParts Idler/Extreme Pitman, SuperSteer Idler mount, Redhead steering gear, Sway-A-Way torsion bars, adjustable rear upper and lower spoiler -Chassis and tie rod. Bilstein 5160s,. you have the idea The bushings were changed without problems, a couple of months on the road everything is fine. Then the vibrations started. To be clear, poly bushings are stiffer and increase vibration transfer between the frame and body. Period. I expected and it suited me. First, the PE grommets are not as thick as the factory rubber grommets. Some say this is because the rubber settles to the average thickness that the poly is made to while the poly retains its original shape. After years and miles of wear, factory bushings will accommodate the wear and settlement of the body relative to its configuration on the frame. This corresponds to the fact that the bushings on the frame/body members have different thicknesses. As you add poly, some of it gets thicker, thinner, and equal to the dropped rubber. Yes, you can tighten them to soften the differences, but it's useless exercise. After 12,000 runs and constant checking and adjustments, there are still bushings up to 1/8" in length that aren't long enough to fully fit. This resulted in frame harmonics or "radiation" and ringing at certain speeds and/or terrain conditions. (knock not related to intermediate steering shaft(s) or bearings, all replaced) Original factory "pads" as they're technically called are about $100 a set, and you'll need the top, bottom pads , bolts, spacers and keep track of everything separately. On a '03 tahoe z71 it's $800-1000 for parts only for the entire kit including radiator support bushings. The additional market is about half that all problems gone. Has an annoying height difference between my rear tires 5/16" which is the same now. No more vibration at any speed. No more rattling. No hard transfer of road from frame to body. And finally all around on the Point to come, my tire - increased clearance to the fender by 1/4" over the polymer bushings, eliminating all friction and allowing me to get a full 33/. The tires are 12.50/17, as before. And that's a lot once you start cranking the torsion bars. With all parts built in performance, this 1/4" allowed me to lower the front far enough to be within the upper tolerance of my "Z" measurement, putting my lower ball joints within an acceptable range and reducing their wear have been greatly reduced as well as near perfect steering forward in my alignment and no turning on bumps.Overall I have to say the PE bushings are of good quality and will perform as advertised.But the wear rate of modern rubber bushings is over a very long period of time almost equal to that of polymer bushings. I have had polymer bushings on another car for about 7 years and 110,000 years and they are worn out as are the factory pads that I removed from my Tahoe. It all depends on budget and preference.