Review on 🔧 Wokesi 10Pcs 1/4" Solid Tungsten Carbide File Cutter Taper Points Burrs Grinding Head Set - Fits Rotary Tools (6mm Shank Diameter), Endmills, Bits for Enhanced Cutting Performance by Trae Joubert

I bought these to use on objects I 3D print. I mainly print in PLA, PETG and TPU. Although I usually try to design my objects to have all required physical properties (like gaps, holes, correct orientation of holes, etc.), I either miscalculate the position of elements or omit such elements in the model for reasons of the Pressure stability and add it. after printing. Two examples: I recently designed and 3D printed several speaker cabinets for guitars. Although the speaker bolt circle diameter was sourced from the manufacturer, the speaker mounting holes were slightly offset. I just used one of those burrs to lengthen the mounting holes a bit. Sometimes I 3D print hollow molds to make LED light bulbs. For some geometries, if I try to print them hollow, without solid supports, the print will have a very high error rate. So I print the model with some solid bottom layers to add stability, then after printing I drill a small hole in the bottom of the model and widen the hole with one of those burrs if necessary. the burrs themselves. I've always been content with the smaller, thinner burrs that came with the rotary tools, but some of them were worn out, so I bought them. With PLA and PETG, these burrs bite into it. seems ok. I almost ruined some of the prints because these burrs happily bite into whatever surface I press them against and start biting into it. So for light finishing or touch-ups I use one of the softest burrs in my arsenal. But for example, like the second example I've listed above, these ridges are a real treat and make the job a whole lot easier! So far I have only used burrs for the materials mentioned above, but if necessary I would definitely use them for harder plastics and possibly some metals. Although for my needs they are great for capturing footage!