Review on 🧵 SINGER Professional 14T968DC Serger Overlock: 2-3-4-5 Stitch Capability, 1300 Stitches per Minute - Sewing Made Easy in White by Sasha Hsiao

UPDATE: I have upgraded a Singer Pro 5 to a Babylock Evolution (which is about 8x the price of a Singer) and now that I have the pros and cons of each machine would like to share have had experiences with both. The Singer is the undisputed winner in the value for money category and has some features that the Babylock doesn't have. If you're considering buying these sergers and want to get the most out of a high-end machine, I wouldn't hesitate; buy singers I mostly sew clothes so I mainly use 3 and 4 thread overlock stitches and a coverstitch to finish the hem. In the course of the work I usually switch from overlock to coverstitch several times. I sew knitwear, fleece, lightweight fabrics like rayon and silk, heavyweight fabrics like denim, and technical fabrics like DWR nylon. Stitch quality is excellent on both machines. I haven't had any problems with tension or loop stitches, provided the machine is threaded correctly. ADVANTAGES OF SINGER: Large working area: Singer's sewing arm is longer. This means there is more room to the right of the needle to hold the fabric, so decorative stitches can be sewn in the middle of the fabric without puckering. Improved sewing feet: With transparent sewing foot as standard. Babylock comes with an opaque steel foot so you can't see the fabric as it passes under the needle. The Singer also comes with an accessory kit with six extra sewing feet (haven't tried them yet). Babylock costs about $50 for each additional foot, including the see-through sewing foot. Wide flat seam: On a fleece fabric, a wide flat seam creates an even seam that remains elastic. Babylock doesn't have that stitch, just a narrow flat lock. Singer does an excellent job on this task. Trimming Bin: The Singer comes with a plastic bin that attaches to the front of the machine and catches stitches and threads as the knife cuts them as you sew. Babylock does not come with this case; You can buy it for an additional fee, but it should hang in front of your workspace (which doesn't work for me). 5/8" seam allowance, just a sticker printed on a serif plate. You can use a ruler to find which marking corresponds to the desired seam allowance width. Singer printed it on the lid. CONS Singer: Jumpy motor: When you pedal press, the motor hums until you press hard enough, then suddenly jumps forward. There's no "slow start" like Babylock; it feels like it's all or nothing. The stream processing takes longer: In fact, slicing streams is fairly easy on both machines, with practice you can probably fill both at the same time, although the Babylock Jet-Air's refueling system is flawless, I had to top up the Singer after a mistake what the average time to refill the machine (especially considering how long it takes to sew a test piece to make sure you refilled it correctly ). However, Singer did a great job drawing and color coding thread paths. With frequent use, you should get the hang of it and make fewer mistakes. More Knobs to Adjust: When switching from one stitch to another, there's a long checklist of knobs and adjustments to tweak to get the machine right for the job. new seam. In comparison, Babylock has less; it's more automated. I still have to refer to the owner's manual when setting up Singer; I can get by with Babylock without a reference book. Overall, I highly recommend Singer. It is just as efficient as an expensive machine because threading takes a little longer when changing stitches. That's fantastic for a 5-thread machine that handles both overlock and coverstitch. Singer obviously put a lot of thought into the design of their sewing machines and sergers. If they ever figure out how to do auto-threading (and I'm sure they will), Babylock will lose its advantage. -------------------- ------------ FIRST REVIEW FOLLOWS: I love my Singer Quantum Stylist sewing machine so I decided to a chance to take and will be my first overlocker. I'll admit, even with a technical background, I was initially intimidated by the difficulty of threading the loopers. However, after printing the workbook and carefully following the instructions, I figured out how it works. Working with threads is fairly easy, but it definitely takes some practice to get used to. Look for colored dots on the metal loops and follow the pattern printed on the front panel. The pedal control is like an inexpensive (non-electronic) sewing machine. When you first step on the pedal, the machine hums for a while, until it suddenly revs up to full speed. Once it's moving you can slow it down, but that initial burst of speed is very confusing. At first I thought the car was broken. This is my first serger so I don't know if this is normal but I suspect it is common with all inexpensive machines. Everything about the fabrics I've tried turned out great. I even made a knitted tunic the first week I owned a car. I like that the machine does both the overlock stitch and the coverstitch so I don't have to buy a separate machine. Pro tip: Use a label maker to mark five different handles on the sides so you know which is which. You can then simply consult the table at the beginning of each workbook chapter and set the correct value for each disc. stands at the top. Raise the presser foot. Insert a small screwdriver under the presser foot, grab the looper threads, and pull them forward and out of the machine a few inches. Cut these threads. You can then pull the fabric toward the back of the machine until it comes clean, at which point cut the remaining thread to untie it. This was not at all evident from reading the operating instructions. Funny story, after showing my friend the stitch patterns I made, he started looking for cut stitches on all his RTWs and comparing them to my stitch patterns. I think he can start using the car too!