I've fitted this valve cover for about 1000 miles. I checked at 500 miles and couldn't tell if the oil had dropped. Just got back from another 500 mile freeway ride and still can't tell if the oil has burned out. At the top of the pound signs! I used to burn about a quarter per 1500 miles. I should have about 1/2 liter per 1000 km. At the same time I did a Diablosport (87 Octane) tune where I disabled V4 mode. I also swapped out the oil pressure sensor and strainer shortly after. I stopped seeing thick white or gray smoke on the first few cold starts and haven't had it since. My 2008 Burb never smoked as heavily as some of the other reviewers. I add MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil) for the last 500 miles of every oil change and I never drive more than 4000 miles unless I'm on vacation. Oil is cheap, change more often (10k is scary!). I will now be switching to Valvoline MaxLife Full Synthetic 5W-30 as I no longer burn oil. I've been using Castrol Syntec 5W-30 since I bought a truck for 143,000 in 2013. Now I have 237k, 300k shouldn't be a problem. I've read all the horror stories about AFM engines burning oil. Too many people talk about blown rings, pushrods and piston replacements when all we need is a simple PCV repair? This spring I will be doing all my U-joints and removing the front differential to check the oil pan for the infamous cracked o-ring on the oil pickup. If you stop on a hill and the oil pressure drops, but not on a flat surface, your o-ring is venting the oil, causing the pressure to fluctuate. It took me less than 20 minutes to remove and install it. This includes cleaning and repairing the cracked plastic duct on the ignition coil leads.
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