Purchased for Silverado Z71 2000 Version 5.3. I used multiple cranks to start and started losing a lot of power/acceleration when going uphill or towing a trailer. Also, there was a high-pitched squeak from my gas tank, and my fuel gauge often got stuck or showed a blank reading. This is a replacement for the factory AC-Delco except for a simple wired connection. for a new type of power connector. I have average to below average common sense and mechanical ability and installed this pump myself in about 2 hours, details below. To my surprise, I managed not to blow anything up and my truck immediately caught fire and ran like new. I've driven it about 4000 miles and am very happy with my purchase. It appears to be a well built pump that I expect will last the 200k that the original gave me. If not I will change this to a very angry review. *The only issue I had was that the new (included) o-ring was too thick for me to easily put the locking ring back on, but my old one was still in good condition so I just have it cleaned and dressed Delphi. All I did was watch the "dump bed" setup method on YouTube as I lit up my six pack abs and two beers later I was under my truck removing the bed bolts. . If I remember correctly it was 19mm, maybe 18. You'll probably need an 8-10" extension for the rear. I removed all of the bolts on the driver's side and pushed the passenger's side down about 3/4. By the way. Then I unclipped the taillights and pulled out the gas cap stem. The tailgate isn't that heavy, but it can also be removed to make raising the bed a little easier, but I didn't have too much trouble tipping over with one hand and wedging into my support blocks. I won't give you any safety warnings but please use more than one 2x4. It's a fairly large pump, but the two support arms are spring-loaded, so you can squeeze them together a bit while trying to get them into the tank. You still need to tilt the body fairly high to get enough clearance. I removed the fuel pump relay and tried to start the car a couple of times. Time to burn the fuel in the lines and save the mess. I also flushed the top of my tank and the old pump and bent over the retaining ring before removing it as I'm sure there was enough crap in my gas tank already. This pump does not include new fuel line/exhaust connector clamps so use caution when removing old ones or follow instructions. Link another posted reviewer to order new ones in advance. The bottom segment where the pump motor is will likely be filled with gas, so tilt it while you pull out the old pump and you'll make less of a mess. Attach the included float to the Delphi according to the instructions (there is only one way) and carefully insert the pump into the tank, aligning the small notch at the top. As mentioned above, remove the o-ring from the old pump before discarding it just in case you can't reinstall the retaining ring with the new one. All fuel lines return the same and new umbilicals/instructions are included. All you need is a pair of pliers and some tape. The instructions are garbled unnecessarily but it's quite simple, for my truck the original wire colors were exactly the same which meant the picture for "Combination" #4 on page 2 under "Wiring Identification Diagram" has been used. Just use the blue connectors for the gray and black wires and the red connectors for the purple and orange striped wires. I didn't have a heat gun as they say so I just taped it neatly and firmly. Once everything is reconnected (don't forget the relay), start it up and open your holiday beer. When you lower the bed back down it's likely to move a bit, so you'll need to realign the screw holes and then visually check the edges along the cab and bumper to make sure they're not too far apart. Don't forget to reconnect and check the taillights, this is important. Hope that helps. Much luck!
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