
There are some negative reviews here, mainly about the screws for connecting the wires. Most GFCI brands have such screws. The holes are for #12 solid wire. If you want to wrap the wire around the screw, you can do so, just don't try to force the screw out. If you must connect #10 or stranded wire, use crimped connectors. The red light flashes about once per minute to indicate a self-test and the green light indicates power is present and failed. Both lights will turn off when activated. (You need to wait patiently and see the red light flashing). I've used all 10 outlets and they work. They are disconnected from the connector in the GFCI tester. However, make sure which connections are for the line and which are for slave outputs. Branded GFCIs have yellow tape over the powered connectors so you can easily identify which screws to connect the power to. The absence of the yellow strap was the only difference I noticed between them and well-known brands.