Review on 🔆 MotoShield Pro 2mil Ceramic Window Tint Film | Auto UV Block & Infrared Heat Reduction - Premium Professional Grade | 70% VLT, Size: 20” x 10 Ft Roll by Kyle Pickett

Like every other shade I've used, it feels a bit "harder" than other more expensive shades I've used, which isn't necessarily a bad thing, but if you're new to toning , it may be harder to avoid wrinkles. apply it. But with any shade, your success depends on the foundation; a: very clean windows and areas around windows and especially inside window frames, b; film clips. If you are too generous when cutting the film, you will have to work with excess material, which makes it difficult to apply the film, by shifting and after cutting increases the risk of adding more creases and dirt to the back of the film, creating "fingers" and "lines", hair etc. Patience and care when trimming is therefore key and large amounts of the solution you use will NOT leave dry stains on the film or window. When the windows are fairly flat, like most SUV/truck windshields, at least in my experience the film doesn't need to be pre-shrunk, and I've done it several times, even on most midsize sedans, which I've previously avoided - shrinking the Tint. with excellent results but I have used a different shade for the ones imported from Europe which are much more plastic. It's important to remember that people have complained about the film not sticking, although it turns out some people forget to remove the protective film, it is clear and a bit difficult to remove and you can remove the film easily break when trying remove it. Another thing people do is they cut the film from the inside of the window leaving the adhesive on the wrong side of the film and therefore not sticking. To avoid this, make sure you know which side the adhesive is on and which side the adhesive is on. The easiest way to remove the protective film is to simply take two pieces of tape and stick them on either side of the corner of the film . Once you have attached the tint to the outer pane the protective film will stick to the tape and the tint to the other piece of tape and you can carefully peel the protective tape off the tint by pulling the pieces of tape to the sides. I hope I made sense here, voila! The protective layer can be easily removed. You can now spray paint on the inside of the window and the adhesive side of the tint, carefully transfer the tint to the inside of the window and proceed with the final trimming and application. Now only time will tell if the glue is good. Enough about this shade to give it a better rating, it's just too early to tell, I applied it last night. But from what I can tell you at the moment, this shade is not that different from any other shades I've used from big name brands like Gila or similar. 70% VLT is ideal for windscreens, not too light and not too dark. The packaging of this shade was well packaged so I had no problem with a damaged roll, a 20 x 10ft roll is enough for 3 SUV's (Tahoe) front windows so you can afford a mess :) So my advice on grout for Application; I used a 16 ounce spray bottle filled with water for this project, I added Mrs. Meyer's light dish soap for about 3 seconds and let it mix well. If it's a hot day you can use a little more for mobility as the heat will evaporate the water quickly, but other than that you don't want to use too much, all you need is for the shade to slide where you put it need before the glue dries on the window. , do not use the windows for at least 3 days as the tint needs some time to dry properly otherwise you risk breaking the tint. Much luck.