I was hesitant to buy this set of 3 because I could get 8 without a display for the same price. I ended up buying 2 with no display but they were dead on arrival so I returned them. I decided to try this product as I found it convenient that I don't have to take out my multimeter to set it up. I'm very glad I did! Usage: The left button toggles the display on and off. The right button toggles the display between input voltage and output voltage. There are displays that show what voltage you are reading. To change the voltage, turn the potentiometer on the blue module between the capacitors. You will probably have to turn it counterclockwise many turns the first time before the output voltage starts to drop. to check the voltage at any time or just leave it on for constant reading. - *Input and Output*: You can read both input and output power. Leaving the display on helps protect your lower voltage cells when you put it in "boot mode" (since you know if there are problems or if it's creeping for some reason), and it's on Letting in is great. good for checking battery voltage - *Good choice of potentiometer*: The small potentiometer turns quite easily but seems to stay in place. Because it is small, it is difficult to turn it accidentally. You have to turn it a full turn for each volt, which is great because it's easy to set it to a pretty accurate voltage. - *mountable*: In the picture, I thought the holes in the corners were connection points, like the other LM2596s. Boards. However, these are actually mounting holes not typically found on other LM2596 boards. This simplifies the integration into projects -*Connection options*: There are four connections: In-, In+, Out- and Out+. Each of these 4 connectors has a screw terminal and two holes (different sizes) for soldering wires or connectors. When switching between input and output voltage, it takes a few seconds for the new voltage to be displayed. - *Size*: This may not matter to most, but it is noticeably larger than the more common LM2596 board (62 x 35mm vs. 45 x 21mm). as 1A the board stayed at room temperature the whole time. This is a very light load though, so I can't speak to its higher powered cooling performance. The pins you can solder connections to are closer together than those I've found on other boards. I like this because it's easier to design my perforated board wiring around it, but depending on your design, this can also be a disadvantage. The pin layout allows the board to be connected to a breadboard, but its size is standard. bread plate sizes. For us it's on a breadboard, you either don't have to use any of the rows under the board (apart from a few short wires to power the row under that board) or you have to connect these by installing the board last and avoid using jumpers underneath. I suspect most people just won't use it on a breadboard and will hook it up externally.
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