IN 1950S CONCRETE BASEMENT. INSERT AN OLD RAG INTO THE PIPE TO KEEP CLEAN/CLEAN! THEN CAREFULLY (1 HOUR) DRILL LEAD/OAK BETWEEN THE OLD FLANGE AND THE CAST PIPE. THEN PULLED/DOWN THE OLD RAZY FLANGE. THE HOLE IN THE CONCRETE HOLE IS A LITTLE LARGER BECAUSE THE NEW FLANGE IS LARGER AND GROUND THE OUTSIDE OF THE FORM PIPE, SIGNIFICANTLY SMOOTH WITH THE ADVANTAGE TAPE. THE TEST IS SET IN PICTURE 1. THE FIELD WAS LOTS OF VOID SPACE BELOW. EXPANDING FOAM IS USED TO FILL IN IMAGE 2. THEN "DEEP CUT" INTO UNWANTED FOAM. SORRY NO MORE PHOTOS IT WENT SO SMOOTH. PLACE THIS AMAZING THING IN POSITION WITH RTV SILICONE TO SLIDE ONTO THE PIPE AND AFTER TIGHTENING TO ENSURE A TIGHT SEAL. !LOOK AT HEIGHT, FLOOR LEVEL AND ORIENTATION OF TOILET SCREW SLOTS!ADD 4 PCS. 3 INCHES. X ΒΌ" STAINLESS STEEL BONE HEAD PAN SCREWS WHICH DROP DOWN INTO THE FOAM AT THE FLANGE HOLES AT 90 DEGREES INTO THE CAVITY/INSIDE. THE BOLTS MUST BE FLUSHED EVEN WITH A NEW FLANGE SURFACE. GIVES THE FLANGE ADDITIONAL SUPPORT! THEN IT WILL BE INSTALLED PERMANENTLY WITH A CONCRETE INFILL. (INSERT ANCHOR) WHILE THE STONE IS IN 5 MIN...' MAKE SURE THE 4 SCREWS DID NOT HOOK UP AND THAT THE 'TOILET SCREW SLOTS' WERE CLEARED TO INSTALL THE TOILET.β Solid as a Rock! FLANGE, BOLTS, PIPES ALL CONCRETE... PULL OUT THE CLOTH THEN SEAL THE WAX AND RINSE!
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