🚽 Oatey 42255 Closet Flange: 4-Inch Cast Iron - Durable and Reliable Plumbing Solution Review

It was the bomb. I had to dig up the lead and drag fibers around the cast iron drain pipe by drilling lots of holes in the lead and then prying the lead out with a screwdriver. Then I put the flange on the cast iron pipe and tightened it by tightening the bolts. It worked absolutely perfectly. Lead and cable do not need to be replaced. I think the plumber in this old house used one on a cast iron pipe and there may be a video on ThisOldHouse.com or Youtube.

I was renovating my bathroom but wanted to keep the original 4" cast iron pipe. This flange feels very strong compared to the PVC flanges at HomeDepot/Lowes. Pretty easy to install but it took a while for the extra tile to chip off. I took a diamond wheel on my dremel and made a notch in the tile, then chipped it off with a chisel and hammer. Then I used a small diamond hole saw to drill holes in the tile for the screws. Then attach the rubber seal (TAPERED SIDE DOWN). I then bolted the flange…

I've been a plumber for 30 years and to my knowledge cast iron flanges are the strongest cuff in a cabinet when installed correctly. Cast iron flanges are more secure and hold large toilets more firmly than PVC sleeves, even PVC/stainless steel sleeves. This flange was developed to replace old cast iron flanges. There are several disadvantages; The collar is much thicker than the previous flange and requires the bottom to be opened further to fit the new flange. If you have a tile floor, this…

I had trouble installing this flange because the drain pipe did not appear to be round. Looking at the pipe, it looked like the pipe had been severed with a torch during installation in 1953. I took and loosened four screws until there were a few threads left on them, then I pushed open the entire flange until it started to work evenly. Then it took 1X4x8 inches long and then went around to keep the flange straight until it was flush with the clean floor. Not just a cast flange, otherwise it…

I had to replace the flange in the toilet with a 4 inch iron pipe that was higher than the floor so the plastic insert didn't work without cutting the pipe. The old flange was also oversized so when removed there was no floor material to attach the new flange to. This thing installed in a few minutes and wrapped very tightly around the pipe and didn't need to be bolted to the ground. The toilet doesn't move at all. The first check that said it wouldn't tighten either didn't have a 4" pipe or it

IN 1950S CONCRETE BASEMENT. INSERT AN OLD RAG INTO THE PIPE TO KEEP CLEAN/CLEAN! THEN CAREFULLY (1 HOUR) DRILL LEAD/OAK BETWEEN THE OLD FLANGE AND THE CAST PIPE. THEN PULLED/DOWN THE OLD RAZY FLANGE. THE HOLE IN THE CONCRETE HOLE IS A LITTLE LARGER BECAUSE THE NEW FLANGE IS LARGER AND GROUND THE OUTSIDE OF THE FORM PIPE, SIGNIFICANTLY SMOOTH WITH THE ADVANTAGE TAPE. THE TEST IS SET IN PICTURE 1. THE FIELD WAS LOTS OF VOID SPACE BELOW. EXPANDING FOAM IS USED TO FILL IN IMAGE 2. THEN "DEEP CUT"…

I am summarizing what I will explain in more detail later. This is a great product to use as an alternative to the old style pak and lead connection when replacing a broken cast iron flange. It can be used by DIYers, but you must be prepared to do any trimming and chiseling required to lower the flange so that the top of the flange is no more than 1/2 inch higher or lower than even with finished flooring, a job you would otherwise pay a plumber to do. It can also be used to raise the level of…