Review on OTC 6918 Spark Plug Remover by Shawn Sims

Dustin, I don't know what went wrong but I can echo everyone else's positive experience. I couldn't find any information about this tool other than other people's comments below. Before I bought this I posted a question about how to turn a tool and stuff, Nick B. gave the best answer. The other two recommend using a 1/4" or 3/8" ratchet. A little more detail might help those who hesitate. The narrow/thick part (top/left of picture) has a 9/16" socket on the end and runs along the hex of the spark plug. The threaded part unscrews completely from the thicker 9/16" socket. piece, and you should only thread it through a thread or two. Inside is a silver socket that sticks to the plug electrode when you put it on the plug and onto the hex. Screw in the black threaded part by hand until snug, then tighten (but not over tight) with an 8mm socket. This will connect the electrode/porcelain to the hex. The thick piece then slides over the piece you just put on the plug like a socket. This thick piece has a 1/2" ratchet on top (actually, the instructions say it's a 3/8" drive, but it's not). At the same time, you still need to go slow and use some PB blaster or carb cleaner on the connector to loosen the carbon around the bottom electrode shield. A nut is used on a thin threaded part to pull the porcelain (and possibly the bottom electrode shield) straight out of the spark plug socket. The short piece simply sits on top of the spark plug socket on the engine and the nut is tightened against it. That way the tool pulls straight out with the top electrode and porcelain attached. If only the porcelain would come out you would have to use Lisle or another tool to remove the electrode shield. I didn't have to do this, all 8 connectors came out intact out of here. I still have the Lisle tool as insurance, but it's still in the box.