Review on 🔧 Efficient Yonico 14191Q T Slot Cutter Router for Precise Woodworking by Curtis Donjuan

Just cut a few grooves today and had no trouble with them in 7ply AC plywood. I nearly completed my first cut (maybe 32nd gap) with a quarter inch router and then completed the cut with that router at the router's maximum speed. I used a dust collector on my router table and there are absolutely no chips left in the groove. I set my overall depth to 3/8" otherwise there isn't much material to support the bolt. I would still suggest using a wing washer as you simply won't have the same strength as a commercial T-track The main benefit here is cost savings, if you are careful not to over tighten the torx screws the grooves seem to work fine, again I would suggest using a thumb washer so you don't destroy the very thin support arm. Remember they are for quarter" screws and a lot of my stuff is 5/16 x 18. The size is really common and much stronger. I also like to use the toilet flange screws as they fit the grooves better. You can do a second pass after moving the stop 16" and use those big 5/16 x 18 screws. The pressure could be a little more evenly distributed with the wider flange - I wasn't worried. The benefit here of course is that you can use standard .25"x20 hex head screws and up, they all seem to slide in fine, especially if you pull them very gently before sliding. I have no idea how this one will hold the bit in something like hard maple, but for 7-ply AC plywood they seem to work well without burning or slowing down the router (Bosch 1617 EV at setting 6) PS In hindsight I think half an inch deep would be better than 3/8". I based some of my measurements on commercial T-rails but of course they are aluminum and can use a much thinner arm. An inch deep leaves a fairly narrow arm and in retrospect I think a bit deeper could have been better, to avoid a possible break.