Well, with three of these printers I've had very few problems. The only problem I had was that after a very long print (23+ hours) the hot end got stuck in the filament because the bowden tube collet started to slip and lift up, melting the filament and the nozzle blocked. I'm sure it never took this long to print in factory testing, so I haven't seen this issue with prototypes. A very simple solution was found for this problem. A bezel seal and a short length of Bowden tubing are used. The spacer prevents the inner tube from rising. And now, just like in the photo, I get very accurate and very dense prints with over 69 hours of print time and without a single problem with PETG. I needed a large printer for my projects and it's "perfect" for the job. As with all 3D printers, you need to know how they work in order to use them. And there are "Help" groups on Facebook and help from the manufacturer. Watch the Z-Axis Alignment video during assembly It features a dual Z-axis and easy adjustment with a ruler or tape measure. Both sides within 0.5mm over 400mm are pretty easy to get. The tall verticals are supported by these bars and I checked the square with a machine angle. Placed on these verticals, there isn't even a spot of light around the edge of the square. Handling is good! Most of the problems I've read about with any printer stem from a lack of understanding of how it works. For example, if you want the auto bed leveling to work, you MUST have a clean tip on the hot-end nozzle. You raise the nozzle and melt each filament; Pull the thread towards you and use paper or even a green sponge and clean the tip. Then start auto-leveling. One of my printers had the right front support under the bed loose and had trouble with the platform lifting a bit at this point. I removed the glass and tightened the screws. While taking it off, I screwed them all with the same torque. Now it prints perfectly.
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