Update: Switching to a 0.6mm hardened steel nozzle has really helped to stop this filament from having a headache in your back. Improved adhesion, less tension, better surface finish. Definitely not 5 star quality but I can't rate it the 3.8 it really deserves. YouTube Browser and Sunlu's Lower Price. I've been messing around with a bunch of settings, bed height calibration, etc on my stock CR-10 S5. The best I could do was 260C of the first layer with no fan (245C and subsequent layers with a low to medium fan), a layer temperature of 76C (about the highest the S5 can support without fail ). , the distance between nozzle and a layer of 0.1mm (to prevent layer ripple). Material exiting the nozzle but not yet caught by the bed), printing on Kapton tape + Magigoo, any print with inside and outside margins up to 10mm. Despite all of this, I still get occasional peels on black and a little more often on "white". At least on the edge, I can salvage a partial delamination with a quick dose of rubber cement bonding the surface, edge and bottom of the part, but it's very difficult to ensure all cement is 110% washed off before the next print. Tension, gurgling and questionable layer adhesion are generally common with this material, but worse than average with Sunlu, even after drying the thread at 50C overnight. The backing is completely useless, you're just begging to see the spaghetti monster. Nozzle clogging is likely to occur after 3 hours of printing with a 0.4mm nozzle, preferably a 0.6mm nozzle. The bridge proves decent, albeit with an odd lateral discrepancy between left-to-right and right-to-left aisles. This probably has more to do with the one-sided cooling of the S5 than with this material quality. I know PETG is hard to get used to, but this brand is definitely not for the beginner or the faint of heart. I will definitely return to the more expensive but much more reliable brands of PETG filament.
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