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Review on ๐Ÿ”ง 20 oz. Bar's Leaks 1100 Head Gasket Repair Solution by Robert Hoge

Revainrating 4 out of 5

It worked for a few days

##UPDATE IN A FEW DAYS Even though it worked for a few days the head gasket has started leaking again so I'll bite the bullet and they'll start running. It costs $8 to try. In my case it didn't work. ##### When a head gasket starts to leak it can do different things depending on the location of the leak. You may see coolant leaking from the tailpipe, or oil in the coolant reservoir, or even coolant leaking from under the engine. from my exhaust pipe (indicating a badly deformed head or badly damaged head gasket). In my case my truck was overheating and after fixing the initial problem (failed water pump) I found that a small amount of water was coming out of the exhaust pipe and one cylinder was misfiring due to coolant seeping into it. I know you'll have to remove the head and take it to the shop; However, I have little money and time for it at the moment. I figured this would be a good use case for headgasket sealant as I'm not looking for a permanent solution but rather something to keep the truck running until I have the money and time to invest in a proper one problem solving. Problem. There are many opinions out there about using head gasket sealant, so I tried to sort through reviews from people who have actually used it and stayed away from chair mechanics who were just repeating what they have. heard from their fathers. I also carefully read the instructions on the packaging itself (it's behind the label on the bottle or you can download it from the website, although the instructions on the website had a slightly different lead time than the packaging). I read the instructions several times to understand what was going on. I have learned that it is important to COMPLETELY flush ALL antifreeze from the cooling system before adding it to the car. According to the instructions, antifreeze can harden this stuff, so you sort of don't want them to meet. With that in mind, I flushed the coolant with water three times to make sure everything came out. and then drain the machine overnight. I mean I drained all the coolant, added water, ran the car for 10 minutes, then drained, repeated. I decided to remove the heater core from the cooling system flow. This was easy to do in my truck as the pipes going to and from the heater are located at the very top of the back of the engine making it easy to remove and reconnect the inlet and outlet pipes and the heater to bypass completely. . I couldn't think of a good reason why the heater had to go through the sealant and I didn't want to risk clogging the heater core. Then I added the sealer exactly as instructed. I didn't deviate from the instructions other than letting the truck idle a little longer than intended and of course I removed the heater so I don't turn it on at all. , according to the instructions I flushed the system again. I took my time and rinsed the radiator, expansion tank and engine block as thoroughly as possible with a garden hose. I removed the thermostat and started the engine on the water. I noticed there was some slime on my thermostat so I cleaned it as best I could. I restarted the truck with water in the system, drained the water and repeated several times. Then I drain the car again overnight. After that I reassembled everything (thermostat, heater etc.) and added coolant to the system. I drove the truck around and it seemed to work fine. Coolant no longer flows out of the exhaust pipe. The truck doesn't seem to misfire like it did. Over the next month I will be monitoring and reporting any issues. Summary: Flush all antifreeze before adding sealant. After following the instructions, flush the coolant system thoroughly before adding antifreeze again. to the system. Reading some of the complaints, it seems like a lot of people didn't follow the directions exactly (just poured stuff into a system full of antifreeze) or used it while trying to fix underlying head gasket issues.

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